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1、BRITISH STANDARD BS 6793:1987 Incorporating Amendment No. 1 Specification for Mens uniform shirts UDC 687.241-055.1:687.152 Licensed Copy: sheffieldun sheffieldun, na, Wed Dec 06 12:56:50 GMT+00:00 2006, Uncontrolled Copy, (c) BSI BS 6793:1987 This British Standard, having been prepared under the di
2、rection of the Textiles and Clothing Standards Committee, was published under the authority of the Board of BSI and comes into effect on 30 September 1987 BSI 11-1999 The following BSI references relate to the work on this standard: Committee reference TCM/42 Draft for comment 85/44594 DC ISBN 0 580
3、 15572 2 Committees responsible for this British Standard The preparation of this British Standard was entrusted by the Textiles and Clothing Standards Committee (TCM/-) to Technical Committee TCM/42, upon which the following bodies were represented: British Clothing Industry Association British Rai
4、lways Board British Security Industry Association British Textile Employers Association Chief and Assistant Chief Fire Officers Association Electricity Supply Industry in England and Wales Fire Brigades Union Home Office International Wool Secretariat Man-made Fibres Producers Committee Ministry of
5、Defence National Association of Fire Officers National Union of Tailors and Garments Workers Society of Industrial Artists and Designers Textile and Clothing Contractors Association Amendments issued since publication Amd. No.Date of issueComments 5888July 1988Indicated by a sideline in the margin L
6、icensed Copy: sheffieldun sheffieldun, na, Wed Dec 06 12:56:50 GMT+00:00 2006, Uncontrolled Copy, (c) BSI BS 6793:1987 BSI 11-1999i Contents Page Committees responsibleInside front cover Forewordii 1Scope1 2Definitions1 3Materials1 4Manufacture1 5Sizing3 6Marking3 Appendix A Advice to purchasers on
7、options available in the construction of mens uniform shirts6 Appendix B Method for the determination of peel bond strength of fused interlinings6 Appendix C Supplementary information for MOD contracts6 Figure 1 Construction of epaulette5 Table 1 Requirements for fused interlining laminates1 Table 2
8、 Garment dimensions4 Table 3 Supplementary information for MOD contracts7 Publications referred toInside back cover Licensed Copy: sheffieldun sheffieldun, na, Wed Dec 06 12:56:50 GMT+00:00 2006, Uncontrolled Copy, (c) BSI BS 6793:1987 ii BSI 11-1999 Foreword This British Standard has been prepared
9、under the direction of the Textiles and Clothing Standards Committee. The detailed specification for garment construction and make-up has been provided by a Product Group of the Local Authorities Management Services and Computer Committee. The standard gives details of options that are available wit
10、h regard to pockets and certain other parts of the shirt. A list of these options with references to the relevant clauses in the standard is given in Appendix A. Appendix B gives a method for peel bond strength of interlinings. Supplementary information for Ministry of Defence (MOD) contracts is giv
11、en in Appendix C. A British Standard does not purport to include all the necessary provisions of a contract. Users of British Standards are responsible for their correct application. Compliance with a British Standard does not of itself confer immunity from legal obligations. Attention is drawn to t
12、he need, if appropriate, for the fibre content to be given in accordance with Statutory Instrument 1986 No. 26 Trade Descriptions, The Textile Products (Indication of Fibre Content) Regulations 1986. Summary of pages This document comprises a front cover, an inside front cover, pages i and ii, pages
13、 1 to 8, an inside back cover and a back cover. This standard has been updated (see copyright date) and may have had amendments incorporated. This will be indicated in the amendment table on the inside front cover. Licensed Copy: sheffieldun sheffieldun, na, Wed Dec 06 12:56:50 GMT+00:00 2006, Uncon
14、trolled Copy, (c) BSI BS 6793:1987 BSI 11-19991 1 Scope This British Standard specifies materials, making-up and marking requirements for mens uniform shirts and gives sizing tables for use in both the public and private sectors. NOTEThe titles of the publications referred to in this standard are li
15、sted on the inside back cover. 2 Definitions For the purposes of this British Standard the definitions given in BS 1903 and BS 4973-2 apply, together with the following. 2.1 inturn the depth of fabric folded and turned inside the garment and secured 2.2 seam width a predetermined amount of fabric be
16、tween the edge of component parts of the garment and the seam line 3 Materials 3.1 Main fabric. No main body fabric is specified (see Appendix A). 3.2 Interlining. Where required, fusible interlining in accordance with BS 4973-2 and BS 4973-3 shall be used. NOTEFusing should be carried out in accord
17、ance with the recommendations of the interlining manufacturer. Fusing shall be continuous so that the laminate is free from blisters and there shall not be any strike-through of the adhesive to the face of the laminate nor strike-back through the interlining. The colour of the fused parts shall not
18、differ from that of the non-fused parts of the garment. The fused laminate shall be in accordance with Table 1. 3.3 Collar stiffener. No particular material is specified. NOTEPolyamide has been found suitable for this purpose. 3.4 Buttons. Buttons shall be 18 ligne, 2 hole, and of polyester in a col
19、our to match the main fabric. 3.5 Sewing threads. Sewing threads shall match the colour of the main fabric, shall be in accordance with BS 6157 and shall be chosen from one of the following: a) core spun polyester and cotton, ticket no. 120, 100 or 75 (see BS 4134) depending on the mass per unit are
20、a of the fabric; b) staple spun polyester, ticket no. 120 (see BS 4134). 4 Manufacture 4.1 General The manufacturing details shall be as specified in 4.2 to 4.9. All items shall be cut coat style with attached collars. Shoulder straps, collars and cuffs shall be top fused. Seams and stitchings shall
21、 be as specified in 4.10. 4.2 Back 4.2.1 The back shall be formed with a yoke, 6 cm deep at centre back, of two thicknesses of main fabric. NOTEEach yoke may be cut from one piece or seamed at the centre using seam type 1.01.01 of BS 3870-2. The yoke shall be attached to the back using seam types 1.
22、01.01 or 2.02.01 of BS 3870-2. 4.2.2 If waist suppression is required, the waist dimensions given in Table 2 shall be reduced by 6 cm. There shall be an uncut waist suppression dart 36 cm long, formed in each side of the back, positioned evenly above and below the waist line, with the centre of the
23、dart 11 cm from the side seam for size 39, and proportionately for other sizes. The dart shall be 3 cm wide (1.5 cm on the double) at its widest point. 4.3 Front 4.3.1 A 4 cm wide inturn shall be formed on each front edge. The inner edge of the inturn, cut on the selvedge or finished using seam type
24、 6.02.01 of BS 3870-2, shall be left loose. Table 1 Requirements for fused interlining laminates PropertyRequirementMethod of test Peel bond strength, min.: as received, after conditioning, N per 2.5 cm width after launderinga and reconditioning, N per 2.5 cm width 12.0 7.5 Appendix B Percentage dim
25、ensional change after launderinga, max. Delamination after launderinga 1.5 nil BS 5807 visual observation a After 5 washes in accordance with procedure 3 A of BS 4923 and line drying. Licensed Copy: sheffieldun sheffieldun, na, Wed Dec 06 12:56:50 GMT+00:00 2006, Uncontrolled Copy, (c) BSI BS 6793:1
26、987 2 BSI 11-1999 4.3.2 Six buttonholes, 1.2 cm long, shall be worked vertically in the left front, 2 cm from the front edge, and spaced 9 cm apart with the centre of the top hole positioned 7.5 cm from the collar seam. 4.3.3 Six buttons shall be sewn on the right front, 2 cm from the front edge and
27、 in correct register with the centre of the buttonholes in the left front. A spare button shall be sewn to the right front inturn, positioned approximately 10 cm from the bottom edge. 4.3.4 The yoke shall be attached to the front using seam types 1.01.01 or 2.02.01 of BS 3870-2. 4.4 Patch pockets an
28、d flaps 4.4.1 If provided, patch pockets shall be made from main fabric, shall be 13 cm wide by 13.5 cm deep and shall be fitted with the top edge positioned 13 cm below the collar seam at the front edge and 6.5 cm from the front edge on sizes 38 to 40, and proportionately for other girth groups. Th
29、e top edge shall be finished using seam type 6.03.01 of BS 3870-2 with a 2 cm deep inturn. The patch shall be attached using seam type 5.31.01 of BS 3870-2 with the top corners securely tacked. 4.4.2 Flaps 4.4.2.1 General. If provided, flaps shall be made from two-ply main fabric and shall be 6 cm d
30、eep at the point and 4 cm deep at the sides. A buttonhole, 1.2 cm long shall be worked vertically in the flap, with the centre of the hole 2 cm from the point. The flap shall be attached using seam type 5.31.05 of BS 3870-2 with the top edge positioned 2 cm above the top edge of the patch. A button
31、shall be sewn to the patch in correct register with the buttonhole. Flaps shall comply with either 4.4.2.2 or 4.4.2.3. 4.4.2.2 The flap shall be without interlining. 4.4.2.3 The flap shall have an interlining fused to the top ply. 4.5 Shoulder straps 4.5.1 If provided, shoulder straps shall be made
32、from two-ply main fabric, and shall have a pointed free end. The top ply shall have a fusible interlining. A buttonhole, 1.2 cm long shall be worked centrally in the strap with the centre 2 cm from the point. The strap shall be sewn in the sleevehead seam with the front edge aligned with the front y
33、oke seam. A button shall be sewn to the shoulder in correct register with the buttonhole in the strap. 4.5.2 The dimensions of each strap shall be 14 cm long by 5 cm wide at the sleevehead tapering to 4.5 cm wide at the buttonhole. 4.6 Epaulettes 4.6.1 Epaulettes, if provided, shall comply with the
34、dimensions given in Figure 1. 4.6.2 For fittings for detachable epaulettes, two loops 6 mm wide, of folded main fabric, shall be provided on each shoulder, the first from the sleeve measuring 6.0 cm between inner tacks and the second 10 cm from the sleeve measuring 4.5 cm between inner tacks. 4.7 He
35、m The bottom of the shirt shall be finished using seam type 6.03.01 of BS 3870-2 with a 0.6 cm upturn. 4.8 Collar 4.8.1 There shall be a one-piece, stand and fall collar. 4.8.2 The top collar shall have a two-ply fusible interlining. The first ply shall be cut to the full dimensions of the collar. T
36、he second ply shall be cut to clear the fall edge sewing lines and shall have a 0.3 cm wide slot extending along the break line to within 2 cm of each end of the collar. The collar shall be stiffened to comply with either 4.8.2.1 or 4.8.2.2. 4.8.2.1 A stiffener shall be sewn to each front edge of th
37、e fall of the second ply. 4.8.2.2 A stiffener shall be affixed to the underside of the interlining positioned on the fall bisecting the collar point and retained by the top stitching. 4.8.3 The bottom edge of the undercollar shall be seamed to the neck. The bottom edge of the top collar shall be tur
38、ned in and retained by a row of stitching 0.6 mm from the edge, and shall be edge stitched to the neck covering the undercollar seam. 4.8.4 The dimensions of the collar shall be: fall at back 4 cm; fall at points 7 cm; stand at back 3.5 cm. 4.8.5 A buttonhole, 1.2 cm long, shall be worked horizontal
39、ly and centrally in the left side of the collar stand, with the centre of the hole 2 cm from the end of the stand. A button shall be sewn centrally on the right side of the collar stand, 2 cm from the end. 4.9 Sleeves 4.9.1 Long sleeves 4.9.1.1 A 2.5 cm wide guard shall be fitted to the vent; the le
40、ngth shall be 16 cm from the top of the guard to the top of the cuff. 4.9.1.2 Two 2 cm pleats (1 cm on the double) shall be formed in the bottom of the topside of the sleeve, facing towards the vent, positioned 5 cm and 7 cm respectively from the edge of the vent. Licensed Copy: sheffieldun sheffiel
41、dun, na, Wed Dec 06 12:56:50 GMT+00:00 2006, Uncontrolled Copy, (c) BSI BS 6793:1987 BSI 11-19993 4.9.1.3 The cuff, of two-ply main fabric, shall be 6 cm deep. The top ply of the cuff shall have a fusible interlining. The cuffs shall be attached by means of seam type 3.05.01 of BS 3870-2. Alternativ
42、ely the bottom ply of the cuff shall be attached to the sleeve by a 0.6 cm seam; the top edge of the top ply shall then be turned in and edge stitched to the sleeve covering the seam. 4.9.1.4 A buttonhole, 1.2 cm long, shall be worked in each end of the cuff and positioned horizontally and centrally
43、 such that the centre of each hole is 2 cm from the end of the cuff. A button, positioned at the end of the buttonhole, shall be sewn to the outside of the underlap end of the cuff. 4.9.2 Short sleeves. The bottom of the sleeves shall be finished using seam type 6.03.01 of BS 3870-2 with a 3 cm deep
44、 upturn. 4.10 Seams and stitchings 4.10.1 Collar, shoulder straps, pocket flaps and cuffs shall be edge stitched or stitched 0.6 cm from the edge. The ends of the collar stand shall be edge stitched. The following types of seam and stitch, as specified in BS 3870, shall be used: a) side, sleeve and
45、armhole seams shall be seam type 1.01.01 with the edges overedge stitched together; b) stitching on side, sleeve, armhole, and yoke seams shall be either type 301 or 401 and all other stitching, with the exception of raw edges, shall be stitch type 301; c) raw edges shall be finished using stitch ty
46、pe 502, 503, 504 or 505; d) there shall be not less than 5 or more than 7 stitches per centimetre except for buttonholes which shall have not less than 11 stitches per centimetre. 4.10.2 Buttons shall be sewn on using at least 16 stitches through each hole. NOTESewing threads may be treated with sta
47、in-free lubricant. 4.11 Garment presentation All seams shall be free from pucker. NOTEShirts should be free from loose threads and ends of thread, and should be well pressed and despatched by the manufacturer in a clean condition. 5 Sizing 5.1 Size designations 5.1.1 Stock size garments shall comply
48、 with the requirements of Table 2. 5.1.2 Special measure garments shall be made to the wearers measurements as supplied to the contractor; the table shall then be used as a guide for measurements not supplied to the contractor. The allowance over the chest measure of the wearer shall be 16 cm. 5.2 M
49、easurement methods All measurements shall be taken in the manner specified in BS 5511. 6 Marking Labels complying with BS 5742 shall be attached to each shirt, positioned centrally on the inside yoke. NOTEA composite label may be used. The labels shall give the following information: a) the name, trade mark or other means of identification of the manufacturer; b) the number and date of this British Standard i.e. BS 6793:19871); c) an indication of the neck size of the person the garment is designed to fit; d) instructions for care and cleaning using an appropria