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1、1,Chapter 4,The four primary base weft knitted structures,2,4.1 Introduction 引言,Four primary structures,Plain 纬平针 Rib 罗纹 Interlock 双罗纹,棉毛 Purl 双反面,3,4.1 Introduction 引言,Four machines,Single-jersey machines 单面机 Rib machines 罗纹机 Interlock machines 双罗纹机,棉毛机 Purl machines 双反面机,4,4.2 Plain structure 纬平针组
2、织,Introduction,Hosiery 长袜 Fully fashioned knitwear 全成形针织品 Single-jersey fabrics 单面针织物,Used in the follow products,5,Introduction,Technical face,Smooth Having the appearance of columns of Vs in wales.,6,Introduction,Technical back,Having the appearance of columns of interlocking semi-circles.,7,Intro
3、duction,The properties,Unrove 横向脱散 Laddering 纵向脱散,8,Introduction,The properties,curl/卷边 stretching/拉伸,9,Introduction,The properties,3-dimensional structure,10,4.2.1 Production of single-jersey fabric/单面针织物 on a circular latch needle machine/舌针圆机,Cone 纱筒 Overhead bobbin stand 机顶纱架 Free-standing creel
4、 落地纱架 Winding-down mechanism 牵拉卷取机构,11,Compared with the rib machine,Simpler and more economical More feeders Higher running speeds Knitting a wider range of yarn counts,12,4.2.1.1 The knitting head 编织机构,Yarn feeder guide /导纱器 Latch needle /舌针 Holding-down sinker /握持沉降片 Needle cylinder /针筒 Cylinder
5、driving wheel /针筒托盘 Cylinder driving gear /针筒传动齿轮 Sinker-operating cams /沉降片三角 Sinker cam-cap /沉降片三角座,13,9.Sinker trick ring /沉降片圆环 10.Needle-retaining spring /箍簧 11.Needle-operating cams /织针三角 12.Cam-box /三角座 13.Cam-plate /三角底板 14.Head plate /针筒底盘 15.Cylinder driving pinion/小齿轮 attached to the main
6、 drive shaft/主传动轴,14,4.2.1.2 The knitting action 成圈过程,Knock-over,Holding-down,15,4.2.1.3 The cam system 三角系统,Clearing cam /退圈三角 Stitch cam /弯纱三角,成圈三角 Upthrow cam /回针三角 6.Guard cam /护针三角 Return cam /回针三角,The needle cam race 针三角轨道,16,Race cam /平轨道三角 Sinker-withdrawing cam /沉降片挺出三角 Sinker-return cam /沉
7、降片回退三角,The sinker cam race 沉降片三角轨道,17,4.2.1.4 Sinker timing 沉降片对位,Push point: The most forward position of the sinker during the knitting cycle.,Sinker timing: The relationship between the push point and the needles.,18,4.3 Rib structure 罗纹组织,The simplest rib fabric is 11 rib.,19,Characteristics of
8、rib,Has a vertical cord/凸条 appearance More expensive to produce than plain Be elastic, form-fitting/适体, and retain warmth /保暖better than plain Requires finer yarn than a similar gauge/机号 plain machine,20,Properties of 11 rib,Has the appearance of the technical face of plain fabric on both sides with
9、out stretch Relaxes by approximately 30 per cent compared with its knitting width,21,Properties of 11 rib,Lies flat without curl Can be unroved from the end knitted last Cannot be unroved from the end knitted first,22,Suitable for the extremities of articles:,Tops of socks 袜口 Cuffs of sleeves 袖口 Bor
10、ders of garments 下摆 Stolling and strapping for cardigans/开衫毛衫,23,4.3.1 Rib set-outs 罗纹配置,Single or simple ribs 窄罗纹,Broad ribs 宽罗纹,21, 31, etc,63, 32, etc,24,Swiss rib 瑞士罗纹,Skeleton 11 rib 2隔1抽针罗纹,25,English rib 英式罗纹,26,4.3.2 The knitting action of the circular rib machine/罗纹圆机成圈过程,Yarn feeding 垫纱,Kn
11、ocking-over 脱圈,Clearing 退圈,27,4.3.3 Needle timing 针的对位,It is the relationship between the loop-forming positions/成圈位置 of the dial and cylinder needles.,28,Synchronized timing 同步成圈,Also know as point, jacquard and 22 timing High tension during loop formation,29,Delayed timing 滞后成圈,Also called rib or
12、interlock timing Fabric is tighter and has better rigidity Rib jacquard or broad ribs cannot be produced in this way,30,Advanced timing 超前成圈,Be sometimes used in the production of figured ripple double-jersey fabrics/花式波纹罗纹组织.,31,4.4 Interlock structure 双罗纹(棉毛)组织,It has the technical face of plain f
13、abric on both sides. The wales on each side are exactly opposite to each other and are locked together.,32,characteristics,It lies flat without curl Relaxes by about 30-40 per cent or more, compared with its knitted width Not unrove from the end knitted first Thicker, heavier and narrower than rib o
14、f equivalent gauge Requires a finer, better, more expensive yarn,33,4.4.1 Production of interlock fabric 双罗纹组织的编织,An interlock machine must have the following:,Interlock gating 双罗纹配置 Two separate cam systems in each bed Needles set out alternately,34,Needles of interlock machine :,Long needles 长针（低踵
15、针） Short needles 短针（高踵针）,35,4.4.2 Example of an interlock cam system 双罗纹三角系统举例,The cylinder cam system :,A clearing cam 退圈三角 B stitch cam 成圈三角 C guard cam 护针三角 D upthrow cam 回针三角 E,F guard cam 护针三角 G,H guide cam 导针三角,36,The dial cam system :,1 raising cam 起针三角 2,3 dial knock-over cam 针盘脱圈三角 4 guard
16、cam 护针三角 5 auxiliary knock-over cam 辅助脱圈三角 6,7 guide cam 导针三角 8 swing type clearing cam 摆动退圈三角,4.4.2 Example of an interlock cam system 双罗纹三角系统举例,37,4.5 Purl structure 双反面组织,Purl structures can be achieved with double-ended latch needles/双头舌针 or by rib loop transfer/罗纹移圈 from one bed to the other, c
17、ombined with needle bed racking/针床横移.,38,The tricks/针槽 are opposite to each other and in the same plane. So the single set of purl needles/双头舌针 can be transferred across to knit outwards from either bed.,39,Characteristics of 11 purl,Lateral stretch/横向拉伸 is equal to plain Length-wise elasticity/纵向弹性
18、 is almost double Can be unroved from both ends When relaxed, it is twice as thick as plain,40,Another simple purl,Moss stitch 桂花针 Basket purls 席纹组织,41,Machines for purl structure,Flat bed purls 双反面横机 -no longer built Circular purls (double cylinder machines) 双针筒圆机 Electronically-controlled V-bed ri
19、b machines 电脑横机,42,Engagement/啮合 of the head of the receiving slider/接针导针片 with the needle hook/针钩,4 Necessary conditions:,4.5.1 Purl needle transfer action 双头舌针的转移运动,43,Cam action causing the head of the delivering slider/送针导针片 to pivot outwards from the trick/针槽,4 Necessary conditions:,4.5.1 Purl
20、needle transfer action 双头舌针的转移运动,44,Sufficient free space to allow the heads of the sliders to pivot outwards from their tricks,45,A positive action which maintains the engagement of the head of a slider with a needle hook throughout its knitting cycle,46,4.5.2 The use of dividing cams 分针三角的应用,The p
21、rinciple of the dividing cam operation is that it forms a wedge shape/楔形 of increasing thickness between the upper surface of the needle hook and the under surface of the extended nose of the delivering slider/送针导针片.,47,The principle of the dividing cam operation is that it forms a wedge shape/楔形 of
22、 increasing thickness between the upper surface of the needle hook and the under surface of the extended nose of the delivering slider/送针导针片.,48,The delivering slider (D) advances with the needle. The outer hook of the needle contacts the hook underneath the head of the receiving slider (R).,Purl ne
23、edle transfer action:,49,The head of the receiving slider (D) engages with the needle hook under the influence of a coil spring band (SB)/箍簧.,50,Slider D passes along the wall of the dividing cam (DC), then returns to its cylinder whilst slider R retires into its cylinder ready for the next knitting feed.,51,4.5.3 The use of spring-loaded cams 弹簧支撑三角的应用,This is used in one type of purl machine. At the moment of disengagement, the spring-loaded cam presses onto the tail of the delivering slider (D), causing its head to swing away from the cylinder and to disengage itself from the needle hook.,