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1、神經傳導介質抑制類胜肽神經傳導介質抑制類胜肽（ Neurotransmitter-inhibiting peptides） acetyl-glutamyl-glutamyl-methyoxylglutaminyl-arginyl -arginylamide (Argireline)在細胞外藉由影響鈣離 子調控的胞吐作用（Calcium-dependent exocytosis ）所需的蛋白質生成，進而抑制神經介質的釋 放。藉由 減少肌肉收縮而減少細紋和皺紋 SNARE complex 是膜上蛋白質調控神經胞吐作 用的核心，因為此一複合物會導致（ Catecholamine）的釋放，如果 Cat
2、echolamine釋放 太多就會導致皺紋以及細紋的形成；所以此類 的胜肽就是抑制 SNARE complex 生成 生長因子 Growth Factor EGF : Epidermal Growth Factor表皮細 胞生長因子 刺激老化皮膚細胞再活 化 刺激表皮細胞生長 刺激其他活細胞激素分 泌 刺激纖維母細胞分泌膠 原蛋白及彈力蛋白 刺激受傷組織血管增生 ，加速癒合 傷口癒合過程中防止疤 痕形成 抗皺 FGF: Fibroblast Growth Factor纖維母細 胞生長因子 皮膚再生 刺激膠原蛋白及彈力蛋 白合成 刺激纖維母細胞生長 刺激老化組織再生以及 傷口癒合 刺激表皮細胞生
3、長及移 動 刺激毛髮生長，防止白 頭髮形成 刺激玻尿酸合成 IGF: Insulin like Growth Factor類胰島 素生長因子 扮演與生長荷爾蒙相 同功能 刺激骨骼、肌肉及神 經再生 刺激受傷組織血管增 生 減緩腦下垂體老化 刺激玻尿酸合成 刺激毛髮生長並預防 落髮 VEGF : Vascular Endothelial Growth Factor血管內皮細胞生長因子 血管內皮細胞生長因 子是強力新血管生長因子 刺激血管細胞增生 刺激血管細胞移動 TGF-3 : Transforming Growth Factor- 3 多功能的細胞激素 刺激細胞繁殖、生長 及分化 去除疤痕的形
4、成 協助傷口癒合 化粧品的奈米科技風潮 奈米結構易滲透至皮膚內層，讓化妝品 的效果再也不侷限在單純的表面功夫 奈米載體可使其成分滲透至真皮層與角 質層交界處，對需要深層吸收才得以發 揮的美白、防皺與塑身等功能，可以得 到更有效的發揮 化粧品與奈米科技 奈米化原料粒子 Nanoparticle Titanium dioxide、Zinc oxide、Iron oxide Mica and other metal oxide 奈米容器載體 Nanocarrier Liposome and ethosome Nanosome and micelle Fullerene 奈米化纖維材料 Nanofib
5、er Mask containing chitin/chitosan fiber Happi Lindsay Elkins, Contributing Editor, December 2008 Age gracefully? Not todays consumer, who often seeks anti-aging advice from her dermatologist who, more often than ever these days, markets his or her own line of products. Sales of professional skin ca
6、re products rose 13% in 2007, with anti-aging products leading the category. The International Top 30 2008 1. Unilever United Kingdom $25.48 billion 2. LOralFrance $23.3 billion 3. HenkelGermany $9.75 billion 4. KaoJapan$9.6 billion 5. Reckitt Benckiser United Kingdom $9.42 billion 6. BeiersdorfGerm
7、any $6.38 billion 7. ShiseidoJapan $6.35 billion 8. LVMHFrance $3.74 billion 9. LionJapan $2.65 billion 10. ChanelFrance$2.5 billion 11. Yves RocherFrance $2.41 billion 12. NaturaBrazil$2.2 billion 13. GlaxoSmithKline United Kingdom $2.1 billion 14. AmorePacificKorea $1.78 billion 15. KosJapan $1.58
8、 billion The International Top 30 2008 16. ClarinsFrance $1.38 billion 17. OriflameSweden $1.37 billion 18. LGKorea $1.26 billion 19. PuigSpain $1.21 billion 20. Pierre FabreFrance$1.0 billion 21. YSL Beaut The Netherland s $889 million 22. PolaJapan $878 million 23. PZ Cussons United Kingdom $828 m
9、illion 24. The Bolton Group The Netherland s $739 million 25. SunstarJapan $637 million 26. The Colomer Group Spain $598 million 27. MandomJapan $556 million 28. Lornamead United Kingdom $537 million 29. MenardJapan $521 million 30. FanclJapan $430 million 1. Unilever Major Products: Personal careA
10、xe/Lynx, Rexona/Sure and Degree deodorants; Dove, Caress, Lux and Lifebuoy soaps; Ponds and Vaseline skin care products; Organics, Salon Selectives, SunSilk, Suave and ThermaSilk hair care products; Close-up and Signal oral care products. HouseholdAla, All, Omo/Persil and Surf laundry detergents; Co
11、mfort and Snuggle fabric softeners; Sunlight dish detergent, Domestos bleach, Cif cleaners. New Products: Vaseline Cocoa Butter range, Clear anti-dandruff shampoo, Domestos Zero Limescale bleach. 2. LOral Major Products: LOral Paris, Garnier, Maybelline New York, SoftSheen Carson. LOral Professionn
12、el, Krastase, Redken, Matrix, Mizani, Pureology LuxuryLancme, Biotherm, Helena Rubinstein, Kiehls, Shu Uemura, Giorgio Armani, Parfums Cacharel, Ralph Lauren Fragrances, Paloma Picasso, Parfums Guy Laroche, Diesel, Victor Hair care Palette Golden Gloss Browns, Gliss Kur Oil Nutritive, Schuama Kiwi G
13、lanz, Taft Volume Power, Drei Wetter Taft Sensitive, BlondMe Personal care Fa Naturals shower gel and deodorant, Dial Yogurt; Skin careDiadermine AgeExcellium Oral careTheramed 2-in-1 freshness, Theramed Titan Fresh. 4. Kao www.kao.co.jp Major Products: Household products, personal care products and
14、 color cosmetics. New Products: Sofina beaut, Sofina Primavista base makeup, Asience hair care (relaunched globally), Megurism steam eye mask, Attack Biogel liquid laundry detergent, Mens Biore line (relaunched in Japan). 5. Reckitt Benckiser Major Products: Surface care Cillit Bang, Lysol, Dettol,
15、 Harpic. Fabric care Calgon, Vanish, Resolve, Spray n Wash, Woolite. Dishwashing Finish, Electrasol Home care Airwik, Mortein Health and Personal care Veet, Dettols, Clearasil. New Products: Cillit Bang Grease Nivea My Silhouette body shaping gel; Nivea for Men Extreme Comfort; Nivea For Men whiteni
16、ng oil control (India); Nivea for Men DNAge anti-wrinkle moisturizer; Nivea Good-Bye Cellulite dietary supplement capsules (U.S. only); Eucerin Hyaluron-Filler eye care. 7. Shiseido www.shiseido.co.jp Major Products: Skin care, color cosmetics, sun care, fragrances, hair care and toiletries. Major b
17、rands include Shiseido, Carita, Decleor, IPSA, Ettusais, Dicila Parfums Issey Miyake, Parfums Jean Paul Gaultier, Parfums Narciso Rodriguez, Nars, Cle de Peau Beaute Za, Parfums Serge Lutens, Urara and Supreme Aupres. New Products: Cl de Peau Beaut La Crmes, Revital, Aqua Label skin care, Acne beaut
18、y care (shampoos, conditioners, treatments, hair styling products, mens hair care, soap, body washes, skin care, antiperspirants and deodorants); fabric care (laundry detergents and additives, bleaches, fabric softeners); home care (dishwashing detergents, disinfectants, household cleaners, kitchen-
19、related products) and insecticides. New Products: Household Soflan with Fragrance and Deodorant fabric softener, Top Kaori Tsuzuku chamomile-scented liquid laundry detergent with fabric softener, Look O2 Cleaner (joint product with Henkel), Charmy gel- based dishwasher cleaner/detergent. Oral care D
20、entor Systema EX Extra Herb, Medish oral care gum. Personal care Ban Deodorant Mist, Ban Refresh Powder Sheets, Bathology skin care, Pro Tec Head mens hair care. 10. Chanel Major Products: Skin care, color cosmetics and fine fragrances. New Products: Skin care Sublimage Essential Regenerating Cream
21、, Hydramax + Active moisture tinted lotion SPF 15 Color cosmetics Facettes dor nail color; Robertson Boulevard limited edition nail collection Fragrance Allure pour Homme Edition Blanche, Chance Eau Frache, Allure Homme Sport Cologne Sport, No. 5 Eau Premire. 11. Yves Rocher Major Products: Skin ca
22、re, cosmetics and fine fragrances marketed under the brand names of Yves Rocher, Daniel Jouvance, Dr. Pierre Ricaud and Kiotis. New Products: Fragrance Naturelle, Comme une vidence Homme. Personal care Plaisirs Nature Kiwi eau de toilette and shower gel Skin care Culture Bio. 12. Natura Major Produ
23、cts: Natura Ekos, Natura Tododia, Natura Chronos, Natura Mame e Beb, Natura Diversa, Natura Amor Amrica. New Products: Natura Amor Amrica, Natura Natur, Natura Tododia, Natura Diversa Hidratao Prolongada, Natura Chronos Politensor de Soja, Natura Aguas, Natura Fixplant, Natura Faces, Natura Mame e B
24、ebe, Natura Ekos Cacau, Natura Homem Chromo, Natura Erva Doce Hidratante Facial, Natura Crer Para Ver Bolsa Amiga do Meio Ambiente. 13. GlaxoSmithKline Major Products: Toothpaste and mouthwash Aquafresh, Dr. Best, Macleans, Odol, Odol Med 2, Polident, Polygrip, Sensodyne Denture care Polident, Poly
25、grip, Corega. New Products: Aquafresh iso-active foaming gel 14. AmorePacific www.amorepacific.co.kr Major Products: Skin care and makeup Laneige, Iope, Mamonde, Innisfree, Hera, Lirikos. Fragrances Lolita, Lempika, Castel Bajac, Espoir. New Products: Sulwhasoo su Essence, ioPE Whitegen RXC, V=B Yeg
26、inseng, premium makeup from Laneige, Happy Bath Blue Spa Essential Body Cleanser. 15. Kos www.kose.co.jp Major Products: Skin care, cosmetics and toiletries. New Products: Junkisui skin care. 16. Clarins Major Products: Skin care, fine fragrance, color cosmetics and sun care sold under brand names
27、such as Clarins, Thierry Mugler, Azzaro, Stella Cadente and My Blend. New Products: My Blend customizable skin care 17. Oriflame Major Products: Skin care, fragrances, color cosmetics, toiletries and accessories. New Products: Enigma and Radiant Lights fragrances, Optimals Radiance Glow self tanner
28、, Lift Expert, Perfect Body, Lash Extreme, Royal Velvet Intensive Revitalizing Cloth Mask. Also, Diamond Musk, Silky Kiss lipstick, Diamond Cellular Anti-aging cream and Dermoprofessional Bio-Peeling Kit (all in September). 18. LG Household Ermenegildo Zegna Z Zegna Fresh; Stella McCartney Stella Sh
29、eer 2008. CosmeticsLipTwins. 22. Pola www.pola.co.jp Major Products: Skin Care Alvita, Whitissimo, Day + Day Vitax, Botanex, 1/f, Plenna, Polissima, BA, Signs Solution 28 Carats, Signs Solution Wrinkle Shot, Evangile Cosmetics Whitissimo, Silfique, Vivoke, Aniak, Maquifard, Super Suncare, Southern C
30、all Body Care Feel Hair CareIdea Style, Simfree Hair Color Mens Care Galantom, GR Shot S. New Products: Whitissimo base makeup. 23. PZ Cussons Major Products: Personal care products sold under brands including Imperial Leather, Joy, Cussons Kids, Premier, Carex, Baby, Luksja, Makler, Sweet Seventee
31、n, Venus Hair, Original Source. Household product brands including Morning Fresh, Elephant, E, Radiant, Robb, Duck and Minerva. New Products: Imperial Leather SkinBliss. 24. The Bolton Group Major Products: Laundry care productsOmino Bianco, Merito, Nibro Bathroom/kitchen care and cleanersWC Net, F
32、ornet, Last, Dubro, Solivaisselle Surface St DuPont (license), Ultima II (license) Multicultural African Pride, Arosci, Creme of Nature, Fabu- Laxor, Revlon Realistics, Special Feeling. New Products: Crme of NatureRed Clover and Aloe Daily Breakage Relief and Jojoba African PrideMiracle Deep Conditi
33、oning No Lye Relaxer System with Healing & Hydrating African Herbs. 27. Mandom www.mandom.co.jp Major Products: Mens toiletriesGatsby and Lucido and Womens toiletriesLucido L, Produce, Pixy and Simplity. 28. Lornamead Group Major Products: Hair care Aqua Net, Finesse, Harmony, Lypsyl, Vosene. Cosme
34、tics and skin care CD, Handsan, Tura. Fragrance and bathWoods of Windsor, Yardley. Oral Care Brilliant, Rapid White. New Products: Vosene new shampoo range, Finesse revitalizing shampoo, LypSyl Beeswax lip balm. 29. Menard www.menard.co.jp Major Products: Skin care, cosmetics and fragrances. 30. Fancl www.fancl.co.jp Major Products: Cosmetics and skin care products sold under the Attenir, Fancl and Nicostar banners. New Products: Fancl Sunguard SPF 30.