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1、“Bilingual Course”,海 岸 动 力 学 Coastal Hydrodynamics,CONTENTS,Chapter1 Introduction,Chapter2 Wave Theory,Chapter3 Wave Transformation,Chapter4 Nearshore Circulations,Chapter5 Sediment Movements,Chapter6 Coastal Changes,PROLOGUE,1 Self-introduction,2 Teaching assumptions,3 About the textbook,Name: ZHEN
2、G Jinhai,Education: Ph.D. 1998, Coastal Engineering, Hohai University,Employment: Professor, College of Traffic, College of Ocean, Hohai University,1. SELF-INTRODUCTION,Research interest (a):,Numerical modeling of coastal and estuarine hydrodynamics,A phase averaging prediction model for multi-direc
3、tional random waves considering ambient currents,Research interest (b):,Experimental study on interactions of waves and structures,Floating Mat Breakwater in Daishan Central Fishery Harbor,Research interest (c):,Environmental impact assessment of coastal engineering,Large-scale Reclamation Project i
4、n Sanduao Bay,Contact us:,Dr. Jin-Hai Zheng & Jia-Ling Hao, Room 610, Building Yen Kai 2:00 to 5:00 p.m., Every Tuesday.,Email: ,Phone: 83787706,What is it ?,Why is it important ?,How to learn it ?,2. TEACHING ASSUMPTIONS,What ?,2 months: from March 2 to April 26,bilingual:,2 languages Chinese & Eng
5、lish,a two-credit bilingual course,bilingual teaching:,3 types immersion program maintenance program transitional program,What ?,main topics: wave theory wave transformations nearshore circulations sediment movements coastal processes,a two-credit bilingual course,What ?,http:/ http:/ http:/202.119.
6、112.82/scr2006,a state-prize awarded course,Why ?,Students who are going to become engineers and scientists in the field of harbor, waterway and coastal engineering should master the basic knowledge of coastal hydrodynamics, which will help you to avoid undesirable effect in the plan and design of c
7、oastal engineering.,technical abilities language cultural awareness innovative,How ?,Regularly, Carefully, Actively, Diligently,Master the results of derivations & their physical meanings.,Wu Songren (2001). “Coastal Dynamics”. Press of Peoples Communication.,3. ABOUT THE TEXTBOOK,2 periods for intr
8、oduction 10 periods for wave theory 6 periods for wave transformations 4 periods for nearshore circulations 6 periods sediment movements 4 periods for coastal processes,Reference books:,Dean R. G. & Dalrymple R. A. (2004). “Water Wave Mechanics for Engineers and Scientists”. Prentice-Hall, Inc.,Yen
9、Kai (2002). “Coastal Engineering”. China Ocean Press.,Horikawa K. (1998). “Nearshore Dynamics and Coastal Process”. University of Tokyo Press.,Chapter 1,Chapter 1 INTRODUCTION,Introducing characteristic features of coast of China,Introducing development of coastal zone resources in China,Introducing
10、 background information of coastal engineering,Introducing methods to study coastal hydrodynamics,In its basic sense, the coastline represents the,1. Coast,Chapter 1,What is the coast?,The coast is a dynamic environment in which,land and sea are constantly interacting in,response to external factors
11、.,boundary between marine and terrestrial,environments.,As the beaches become even more intensely,Chapter 1,“The beach is the battleground of the shore.”_William Beebe,“The real conflict is between man and nature. ”_Soucie,utilized because of increasing population,we must establish priorities in the
12、 possible,uses of the coast.,2. Characteristic Features of Coast of China,Chapter 1,(I) Variety of Coast Types and Innumerable Islands,(II) Innumerable Rivers Emptying into the Sea and Complicated Coastal Processes,(III) Vigorous Dynamic Action along the Coast,(IV) Prominent Climatic Influence,Chapt
13、er 1,For the continental part of China, the length of,According to geomor-,(I) Coast types,phological features, the coast of China may be classified mainly into silty coast, sandy coast, rocky coast and coral coast.,coastline is about 18000 km, and when including the coastline of 6500 islands, an ov
14、erall length of 32000km may be counted.,Chapter 1,Silty coast (淤泥质海岸) is formed chiefly due to the supply of huge amount of fine sediment by large rivers. The material composing such coast is very fine, generally with grain diameter 0.06 mm. The beach profile presents a very gentle slope, varying fr
15、om 1/500 to 1/2000.,(I) Coast types,Chapter 1,Sandy coast (沙质海岸) is formed most near the mouths of rivers carrying coarse sediment; or where wave action is so strong that fine sediment is easily carried away and difficult to deposit. The grain diameter of the material generally ranges from 0.06 to 2
16、.0mm, with beach profile usually 1/100.,(I) Coast types,Chapter 1,Rocky coast (基岩海岸) presents irregular configuration, with numerous bays, straits and capes. Owing to the presence of great depth of water and good sheltering condition, favorable sites for port construction could be found along such c
17、oast.,(I) Coast types,Chapter 1,Coral coast (珊瑚礁海岸) prevails along the coastline south of the Tropic of Cancer. Coral reefs are usually found around islands, such as around the Hainandao, on the east and south coast of Taiwan and at the archipelagoes of the South China Sea.,(I) Coast types,Chapter 1
18、,The huge amount of sediment deposited near the mouths of the rivers under the action of waves and currents causes significant changes of the coastline.,(II) Rivers emptying into the sea,Chapter 1,(III) Dynamic action,Diversified coast types and innumerable river outlets, together with scattering is
19、lands around the coast, give rise to complicated bed forms, which in turn affects the dynamic features along the coast of China.,TIDE,WAVE,SEDIMENT,Chapter 1,Semi-diurnal tide at the Yangtze Estuary,Chapter 1,(IV) Climatic influence,China is a country strongly affected by monsoons.,In China typhoon
20、is of frequent occurrence during summer and autumn, particularly along the coast of southeastern provinces.,China is often hit by cold wave.,Development of Coastal Zone Resources in China,Chapter 1,() Coastal Resources of China,() Port Construction along the Coast,() Reclamation and Land Use,() Rati
21、onal Utilization and Development of Coastal Resources,Chapter 1,In 1980 the State Council decided to conduct a Nation-wide Comprehensive Assessment of Coastal Resources along our coastline.,(I) Coastal resources,reclaimable land,salt fields,aquatic breeding,tidal power,oil resources,Chapter 1,Up to
22、the end of 2008, there were 36 major ports and the number of 10,000 and over tonnage berth was increased to 1030. The total cargo handling capacity of all the ports along the coast was 5.6 billion tons.,(II) Port construction,Chapter 1,In the past 50 years, about 1.2 million ha of tidal flat have be
23、en enclosed.,(III) Land reclamation,NEW STAGE: multi-purpose development of coastal zone resources more complicated technical problems to meet with,Chapter 1,In the comprehensive utilization and development of coastal resources, it is necessary to consider the specific circumstances of the coastal r
24、egion concerned, making full use of its advantageous conditions.,(IV) Rational development,Meanwhile, special care should be taken of the maintenance of ecologic balance and protection against pollution.,Background Information of Coastal Engineering,Chapter 1,Coastal engineering is a branch of civil
25、 engineering, which was established by the close cooperation between civil engineers and scientists in other fields such as geography, oceanography and geology, etc.,Chapter 1,The term “coastal engineering” was first introduced in Oct. 1950 at the First Conference on Coastal Engineering held at Long
26、 Beach, California, U.S.A. The early research was limited in the area of wave prediction, wave transformation in the shallow water zone especially for military purpose.,(I) Historical background,Chapter 1,Chapter 1,(II) Recent trends,Coastal engineering arose from a strong interest in harbor constru
27、ction and coastal protection measures.,In resent years, the subjects involved in coastal engineering have expanded to the environmental preservation of the coastal and nearshore zones.,Chapter 1,For all kinds of coastal engineering, characteristic environmental factors such as waves, currents, tides
28、 and sediments should be investigated firstly.,All in all, costal hydrodynamics should be mastered.,Chapter 1,(III) Literature sources in coastal studies,field survey,Methods to Study Coastal Hydrodynamics,Chapter 1,Four methods: field survey, theoretical analysis, experimental study, numerical simu
29、lation.,experimental study,numerical simulation,6. Homework,Chapter 1,Review the calculus and the fluid mechanics.,Master the following concepts: the conservation of mass, the Bernoulli equations, the velocity potential, the Taylor series, and the ordinary differential equation.,THANK YOU,“Coastal Hydrodynamics” chapter 1,