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1、标准分享网 w w w . b z f x w . c o m 免费下载 Copyright 2006 American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists AATCC Technical Manual/2007TM 179-2004323 Developed in 1994 by AATCC Committee RA42; revised 1995, 2004; reaffirmed 1996; editorially revised and reaffirmed 2001; editorially revised 2005. 1. P
2、urpose and Scope 1.1 This test method determines change in skewness in woven and knitted fabrics or twist in garments when sub- jected to repeated automatic laundering procedures commonly used in the home. Washing and drying procedures used for shrinkage tests and other home launder- ing tests are s
3、pecified for this method. 1.2 For some fabrics the degree of twist of fabric in garments is not solely dependent on its behavior in the unsewn state; it also may be dependent on the manner of garment assembly. 2. Principle 2.1 Change in skewness in fabric or twist in garment specimens resulting from
4、 procedures typical of home launder- ing practices is measured using bench marks applied to the specimens before laundering. 3. Terminology 3.1 garment twist, n.a rotation, usu- ally lateral, between different panels of a garment resulting from the release of la- tent stresses during laundering of t
5、he wo- ven or knitted fabric forming the gar- ment. Twist may also be referred to as torque or spirality. 3.2 laundering, n.of textile materi- als, a process intended to remove soils and/or stains by treatment (washing) with an aqueous detergent solution and nor- mally including rinsing, extraction
6、and drying. 3.3 skewness, n.a fabric condition re- sulting when filling yarns or knitted courses are angularly displaced from a line perpendicular to the edge or side of the fab- ric (see ASTM Terminology D 123-92). 4. Safety Precautions NOTE: These safety precautions are for information purposes on
7、ly. The pre- cautions are ancillary to the testing proce- dures and are not intended to be all inclu- sive. It is the users responsibility to use safe and proper techniques in handling materials in this test method. Manufac- turers MUST be consulted for specific details such as material safety data
8、sheets and other manufacturers recommenda- tions. All OSHA standards and rules must also be consulted and followed. 4.1 Good laboratory practices should be followed. Wear safety glasses in all laboratory areas. 4.2 The 1993 AATCC Standard Refer- ence Detergent may cause irritation. Care should be ta
9、ken to prevent exposure to skin and eyes. 4.3 Manufacturers safety recommen- dations should be followed when operat- ing laboratory testing equipment. 5. Apparatus and Materials 5.1 Indelible ink marking pen (see 12.6). 5.2 Right triangle, L-square (see 12.7), or marking template (see 12.8). 5.3 Tap
10、e or rule marked in millimeters, tenths of an inch or smaller increments. 5.4 Conditioning/drying racks with pull-out screens or perforated shelves (see 12.3). 5.5 Automatic washing machine (see 12.1). 5.6 1993 AATCC Standard Reference Detergent (see 12.4 and 12.14). 5.7 Scale with at least 5 kg (10
11、 lb) capacity. 5.8 Ballast of 920 920 30 mm (36 36 1 in.) hemmed pieces of bleached cotton sheeting (Wash load ballast type 1) or 50/50 polyester/cotton bleached mer- cerized plain weave (Wash load ballast type 3) (see 12.5 and 12.14). 5.9 Automatic tumble dryer (see 12.2). 5.10 Facilities for drip
12、drying and line drying. 5.11 Digital Imaging System (see 12.15). 6. Test Specimens 6.1 Sampling and Preparation. 6.1.1 Prior to marking, pre-condition and then condition test specimens as di- rected in ASTM Practice D 1776, Stan- dard Practice for Conditioning and Test- ing Textiles. Condition each
13、specimen for at least 4 h in an atmosphere of 21 1C (70 2F) and 65 2% RH by laying each test specimen separately on a screen or perforated shelf of a conditioning rack. If garments would normally be hung on a hanger, they should be conditioned on a hanger. 6.1.2 Fabrics or garments that are dis- tor
14、ted in their unlaundered state due to faulty finishing of the fabric or faulty as- sembly of garments may give deceptive results when laundered by any procedure. In such cases, it is recommended that specimens not be used, or if used, the re- sults be considered as indicative of these specimens only
15、. 6.2 Test Specimens from Fabric Samples. 6.2.1 Test three specimens of each sam- ple to increase precision of the average. 6.2.2 Where possible, cut specimens from different areas of the fabric so that each specimen will contain different groups of lengthwise and widthwise yarns. Identify fabric fa
16、ce; mark length- wise direction on each specimen. 6.2.3 If it is of interest to determine whether the direction of the change in skewness is different from one side of the fabric to the other, prepare three sets of specimens from each area of interest. Identify area from which each set of specimens
17、was taken; i.e., left-side, cen- ter or right-side. 6.2.4 Test specimens prepared for AATCC Method 124, Appearance of Fabrics after Repeated Home Launder- ing, and AATCC Method 135, Dimen- sional Changes of Fabrics after Home Laundering, may be used for this test method when marking by Method 1 (see
18、 12.9). 6.3 Test Specimens from Garment Samples. 6.3.1 Test three garment specimens or a total of three areas of two garments to increase precision of the average. Use the largest panels in the garments. 6.3.2 Test specimens prepared for AATCC Method 143, Appearance of Ap- parel and Other Textile En
19、d Products af- ter Repeated Home Laundering, and AATCC Method 150, Dimensional Changes of Garments after Home Laun- dering, may be used for this test method when marking by Method 1. 6.4 Marking of Specimens. 6.4.1 Marking Method 1 (see 12.10). 6.4.1.1 On each 380 380 mm (15 15 in.) fabric test spec
20、imen or garment panel, mark two 250 mm (10 in.) pairs of bench marks parallel to the length of the specimen and two 250 mm (10 in.) pairs of bench marks perpendicular to the length of the specimen. Draw a line through each of the four sets of adjacent bench marks so that a square is formed. Label co
21、rners as A, B, C and D in clock- wise direction starting with lower left AATCC Test Method 179-2004 Skewness Change in Fabric and Garment Twist Resulting from Automatic Home Laundering Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists Provided by IHS under license with AATCC Licen
22、see=Hong Kong Polytechnic Univ/9976803100 Not for Resale, 03/24/2007 04:07:53 MDTNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS -,-,- Copyright 2006 American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists 324TM 179-2004AATCC Technical Manual/2007 corner (see Fig. 1). Any alternate s
23、ize specimens and bench marks used must be indicated in report (see 12.11 and 12.12). 6.4.1.2 Flat and circular knit fabrics: Tubular finished knit fabric samples rep- resenting goods used in the tubular state; i.e., underwear, sweat shirts, polo shirts, etc., are to be tested in the tubular state.
24、Tubular finished knit fabric samples rep- resenting goods used in the slit open width state; i.e., for dresses, slacks, suits, etc., are to be slit and handled flat. 6.4.2 Marking Method 2. 6.4.2.1 On a 380 660 mm (15 26 in.) fabric specimen or garment panel, use a suitable marking device to draw re
25、f- erence line YZ across the width of the specimen panel (see Fig. 2). Line YZ should be approximately 75 mm (3 in.) above the bottom edge (or hem of gar- ment). If the bottom edge or hem is not straight, draw the reference line perpen- dicular to the vertical axis of symmetry of the specimen. Place
26、 bench mark A per- pendicular to and midway on Line YZ. Place one leg of a right angle marking de- vice along Line YZ so that the second leg is on a perpendicular upward from Point A. Draw a bench mark parallel to Line YZ 500 mm (20 in.) directly above Point A. Draw another bench mark 480 mm (19 in.
27、) from Point A perpendicular to Line YZ to intersect previous bench mark. La- bel the intersection of the bench marks as Point B. If the specimen size is insuffi- cient to mark a 500 mm (20 in.) length, mark the longest available length which is at least 75 mm (3 in.) below the upper edge of the tes
28、t specimen. Any alternate size specimen or dimensions of bench marks must be indicated in the report. 7. Procedure 7.1 Tables I, II and III summarize alter- native washing and drying conditions and settings. 7.2 Washing. 7.2.1 Use specified water level and fill machine, the selected water temperatur
29、e for the washing cycle and a rinse temper- ature of less than 29C (85F). If this rinse temperature is not attainable, record actual rinse temperature. 7.2.2 Add 66 1 g of 1993 AATCC Standard Reference Detergent. In soft water areas the weight may be reduced to avoid excessive sudsing. 7.2.3 Add tes
30、t specimens and enough ballast to make a 1.8 0.1 kg (4.00 0.25 lb) load. A 3.6 0.1 kg (8.00 0.25 lb) load may be used (see 12.13). Set the washer for the selected washing cycle and time (see Tables I and II). 7.2.4 For specimens to be dried by Pro- Fig. 1Method 1: square marking.Fig. 2Method 2: inve
31、rted T marking. Table IAlternative Washing and Drying Conditions Machine CycleWashing TemperaturesDrying Procedures (1) Normal/Cotton Sturdy(II) 27 3C (80 5F)(A) Tumble: (2) Delicate(III) 41 3C (105 5F)i. iiCotton Sturdy (3) Permanent Press(IV) 49 3C (120 5F)ii. iDelicate (V) 60 3C (140 5F)iii. Perm
32、anent Press (B) Line (C) Drip (D) Screen Table IIWashing Machine Setting Conditions without Load Cycle1XYZ Water Level 18 1 gal18 1 gal18 1 gal Agitator Speed179 2 spm2119 2 spm119 2 spm Washing Time12 min8 min10 min Spin Speed645 15 rpm3645 15 rpm430 15 rpm Final Spin Cycle6 min6 min4 min 1Cycle na
33、mes vary with machine model. “X” generally corresponds to “Heavy Duty.” “Y” generally corresponds to “Delicate.” “Z” generally corresponds to “Permanent Press.” 2spm = strokes per minute. 3rpm = revolutions per minute. Table IIITumble Dry Conditions DesignationCycle Maximum Exhaust Stack Temperature
34、 with Loaded Dryer aNormal or Permanent Press67 6C (154 10F) after 1983 65 6C (150 10F) before 1983 bDelicate, Synthetic, Low 62C (144F) after 1983 60C (140F) before 1983 Cool down time Normal and Delicate Permanent Press All 5 min 10 min 10 min after 1983 Copyright The American Association of Texti
35、le Chemists and Colorists Provided by IHS under license with AATCC Licensee=Hong Kong Polytechnic Univ/9976803100 Not for Resale, 03/24/2007 04:07:53 MDTNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS -,-,- Copyright 2006 American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists AATCC
36、Technical Manual/2007TM 179-2004325 cedures A, B or D, allow washing to pro- ceed automatically through the final spin cycle. Remove the test specimens imme- diately after the final spin cycle, separate tangled pieces, taking care to minimize distortion, and dry by Procedures A, B or D (see Table I)
37、. 7.2.5 For specimens to be dried by Pro- cedure C, Drip Dry, remove the speci- mens from the washer soaking wet before the water begins to drain from the final rinse cycle. 7.3 Drying. 7.3.1 (A) Tumble Dry. Place the washed load (test specimens and ballast pieces) in the tumble dryer and set the te
38、mperature control to generate the cor- rect exhaust temperature as specified in Table III. For fibers that are heat sensi- tive, lower temperatures consistent with fiber producers recommendations are re- quired and must be reported. Operate the dryer until the total load is dry. Remove the load imme
39、diately after machine stops, handling to minimize wrinkling prior to conditioning. 7.3.1.1 Spread the fabric samples flat after tumble drying. 7.3.1.2 Depending on the type of gar- ment either spread flat or hang from suit- able hanger. 7.3.2 (B) Line Dry. 7.3.2.1 Hang each fabric specimen by two co
40、rners with the length in the vertical direction. 7.3.2.2 Hang each garment on an appro- priate hanger straightening and smoothing facings, seams, etc. Hang pants and skirts by waistband at side seams. 7.3.2.3 Allow the test specimen to hang in still air at room temperature until dry. 7.3.3 (C) Drip
41、Dry. 7.3.3.1 Hang each dripping wet fabric specimen by two corners, with the length in the vertical direction. 7.3.3.2 Hang dripping wet pants and skirts by waistband at side seams. Hang other dripping wet garment specimens on an appropriately sized hanger. 7.3.3.3 Allow the test specimen to hang in
42、 still air at room temperature until dry. 7.3.4 (D) Screen Dry. 7.3.4.1 Spread each specimen, fabric or garment, on a horizontal screen or perfo- rated surface, removing wrinkles but not distorting or stretching it. 7.3.4.2 Allow specimen to dry in still air at room temperature. 7.3.5 Repeat the sel
43、ected washing and drying cycle four more times or to agreed number of cycles. 7.4 Conditioning of Specimens. 7.4.1 After the completed washing and drying interval, pre-condition and then condition the specimens for at least 4 h by laying each specimen separately on the screen or perforated shelf of
44、a condi- tioning rack in an atmosphere of 21 1C (70 2F) and 65 2% RH (see ASTM Practice D 1776). 7.4.1.1 If garments would normally be hung on a hanger, they should be condi- tioned on a hanger. 8. Measurement 8.1 After conditioning, lay each test specimen without tension on a flat, smooth horizonta
45、l surface. 8.1.1 The wrinkles in most fabrics flat- ten sufficiently under pressure of a mea- suring instrument at the time of measure- ment not to cause measurement error. 8.1.2 Calculation Option 1 or 2 can be used for marking Method 1. Calculation Option 3 should be used for marking Method 2. 8.2
46、 Measurement of square markings using calculation Option 1. 8.2.1 Measure and record the length of the diagonal line AC and diagonal line BD to the nearest millimeter, or tenth of an inch or smaller increment (see Fig. 3a). 8.3 Measurement of square markings using calculation Option 2. 8.3.1 Extend
47、line AD in each direction across the width of the specimen. Place one leg of a right angle marking device along line AD so that the second leg is on a perpendicular downward from point B. Draw bench mark A to intersect horizon- tal line AD. Next place one leg of mark- ing device along line AD so tha
48、t the sec- ond leg is on a perpendicular downward from point C. Draw bench mark D to in- tersect horizontal line AD (see Fig. 3b). Measure and record the length of lines AA, DD, AB, and CD with a suitable tape or ruler to the nearest millimeter or tenth of an inch or smaller increment. 8.3.2 Where c
49、hange in skewness has occurred, indicate whether the bottom of the parallelogram has shifted to the left or the right. 8.4 Measurement of inverted T mark- ings using calculation Option 3. 8.4.1 Place one leg of a right angle marking device along Line YZ so that the second leg is on a perpendicular down- ward from point B. Draw a bench mark along the perpendicular on line YZ. The in