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1、BRITISH STANDARD BS 2723:1956 Incorporating Amendment No. 1 Firemens leather boots Licensed Copy: London South Bank University, London South Bank University, Tue Dec 12 08:59:12 GMT+00:00 2006, Uncontrolled Copy, (c) BSI BS 2723:1956 This British Standard, having been approved by the Firemens Leathe
2、r Boots Committee, was published under the authority of the General Council on 28 February 1956 BSI 09-1999 The following BSI references relate to the work on this standard: Committee reference M/42 Draft for comment CV(M)268 ISBN 0 580 35519 5 Co-operating organizations The Committee under whose su
3、pervision this British Standard was prepared consists of representatives from the following organizations: Association of Municipal Corporations British Boot, Shoe and Allied Trades Research Association British Fire Services Association Chief Fire Officers Association County Councils Association Hom
4、e Office Incorporated Federated Associations of Boot and Shoe Manufacturers Joint Equipment Standardization Committee London Fire Brigade United Tanners Federation Amendments issued since publication Amd. No.Date of issueComments 3743April 1960Indicated by a sideline in the margin Licensed Copy: Lon
5、don South Bank University, London South Bank University, Tue Dec 12 08:59:12 GMT+00:00 2006, Uncontrolled Copy, (c) BSI BS 2723:1956 BSI 09-1999i Contents Page Co-operating organizationsInside front cover Forewordii 1Scope1 2Materials1 3Design1 4Lasts1 5Principles of construction1 6Manufacture1 7Wat
6、er-proofness2 8Marking2 Appendix A Method for determining stiffness of leg stay material5 Appendix B Requirements for vegetable-tanned leathers5 Appendix C Requirements for chrome leathers6 Appendix D Method for determining water-proofness6 Table 1 Standard requirements for leathers3 Table 2 Standar
7、d requirements for sundries4 Table 3 Standard requirements for threads and stitching4 Licensed Copy: London South Bank University, London South Bank University, Tue Dec 12 08:59:12 GMT+00:00 2006, Uncontrolled Copy, (c) BSI BS 2723:1956 ii BSI 09-1999 Foreword This standard makes reference to the fo
8、llowing British Standard: BS 1309, Sampling and analysis of vegetable and chrome tanned leathers. This British Standard has been based, by agreement, on the work of the Made-up Clothing Sub-committee of the Joint Equipment Standardization Committee of the Ministry of Defence. The specification is in
9、tended to provide boots suitable for use by Government, local authority and industrial fire brigades. The J.E.S.C. organization has been responsible for co-ordinating the requirements of the Government Departments and Services. The needs of other civilian authorities have been taken into account in
10、drafting the standard. Although the specification provides for both hand and machine closed boots, it is hoped that hand closing methods will continue to be generally used in the trade. A British Standard does not purport to include all the necessary provisions of a contract. Users of British Standa
11、rds are responsible for their correct application. Compliance with a British Standard does not of itself confer immunity from legal obligations. Summary of pages This document comprises a front cover, an inside front cover, pages i and ii, pages 1 to 7 and a back cover. This standard has been update
12、d (see copyright date) and may have had amendments incorporated. This will be indicated in the amendment table on the inside front cover. Licensed Copy: London South Bank University, London South Bank University, Tue Dec 12 08:59:12 GMT+00:00 2006, Uncontrolled Copy, (c) BSI BS 2723:1956 BSI 09-1999
13、1 1 Scope This British Standard specifies requirements for the materials and manufacture of firemens leather boots. Methods of test are described in appendices. 2 Materials a) Leathers used in the manufacture of the boots shall be in accordance with the particulars of Table 1. b) Sundries used in th
14、e manufacture of the boots shall be in accordance with the particulars of Table 2. c) Threads used in the manufacture of the boots shall be in accordance with the particulars of Table 3. d) Stiffeners used in the manufacture of the boots shall be in accordance with the requirements of Appendix A. 3
15、Design The boots shall be of either Wellington or Napoleon design, as specified by the purchaser. They shall have a knee height of 14 in. or 16 in., when measured at the back from the ground line, as specified by the purchaser. 4 Lasts Boots shall be made on lasts conforming to the following particu
16、lars: These dimensions shall be increased or decreased by 1/3in. for each size above or below the basic size in respect of length on the size stick, and by 1/4in. in respect of joint, instep and calf measurements. The boots shall be made in three fittings per size and half-size in respect of width.
17、5 Principles of construction a) The boots shall be constructed on the veldtschoen principle, with the undersole riveted to the insole, and the upper stitched over the undersole and outsole. b) The boots shall be either: i) hand closed throughout, except for top band and loops which shall be machine
18、closed lock-stitch. or ii) Machine closed lock-stitch throughout. The method of closing to be used shall be agreed between supplier and purchaser. c) The number of stitches to the inch and the needle sizes used in closing shall be in accordance with the particulars of Table 3. d) The front lining sh
19、all be cut whole. e) The leg shall be cut whole. f) The front and front lining shall be blocked. g) The top band shall, be 5 in. in depth. h) The back strap shall be not less than 1 in. in width. j) All parts of the upper and lining shall be correctly skived and fitted. 6 Manufacture a) Hand closed.
20、 i) The back seam shall be flat seamed. ii) The counterback extension shall extend 2 in. up the leg to meet the back strap, which shall be fitted under the counter extension. b) Machine closed. i) The backs shall be seamed and rubbed down. ii) The counter shall be cut straight at the back and the ba
21、ck strap fitted under the counter. c) Hand and machine closed. i) The fronts shall be closed by two closely spaced rows of stitching, and the counters, back strap and top band by one row of stitching. ii) The leg stay shall be inserted between the back strap and the leg. If the boots are machine clo
22、sed, an additional row of stitching positioned 9 in. or 11 in. from the top of the leg, as determined by the height of the boot, shall be machined through the back strap and the back of the boot to form a stop for the stay. iii) Pull on loops wide enough to permit the boots to be easily drawn on sha
23、ll be fitted to each side of the leg. The straps to form the loops shall be 101/2in. long and 11/8in. wide, laid on the outside of the leg, carried over the top of the leg and fitted into a slot in the top band 21/2in. down. Both ends of the strap shall then be machined together through the leg. iv)
24、 The ends of threads shall be tied and all seams hammered smooth. v) All bottom material shall be individually and correctly moulded before attachment. vi) The inner sole shall be properly buffed and feathered. Basic dimensions Size of boot 8Instep101/2 in. Fitting5Length on size stick 113/16in. Joi
25、nt93/4in. Calf17 in. Licensed Copy: London South Bank University, London South Bank University, Tue Dec 12 08:59:12 GMT+00:00 2006, Uncontrolled Copy, (c) BSI BS 2723:1956 2 BSI 09-1999 vii) The toe puff shall be inserted grain side to lining and reinforced with paste or cement, so that it shall set
26、 hard. viii) The upper shall be drafted and snugly bedded to the last; the outside of the upper shall be released and turned back; the stiffener, back, toe puff and vamp lining shall be lasted to the innersole. ix) The bottom shall be completely filled with tarred felt before last slipping. x) The u
27、ndersole shall be through length, split to an even substance to ensure solidity in riveting, and shall be attached with two rows of brass rivets spaced 5/16in. apart from centre to centre of heads. The rows shall be spaced 1/4in. apart. xi) All tacking wire used for positioning the undersole before
28、riveting shall be withdrawn before levelling. xii) The original size last shall be reinserted in the boot. xiii) The flesh side of the lasting allowance of the front, the counter and the feather formed by the undersole shall be coated with a suitable adhesive. xiv) The front and counter shall be tur
29、ned down and snugly lasted on the veldtschoen principle. They shall be secured to the undersole by one row of lock-stitching all round the boot. xv) The height of the leg which lasted at the seat shall be approximately 123/4in. or 143/4in., as specified by the purchaser. (See Clause 3.) xvi) The out
30、sole shall extend the full length of the foot, and shall be stitched through to the upper by one row of lock-stitching in a shallow groove all round the boot. xvii) Seats shall be reinforced by screwing with brass wire spaced 5/8 in. apart from centre to centre before second levelling. xviii) Heels
31、shall be built with four whole lifts. The bottom lift shall be gouged. The height of the heel pack after compression shall be 5/8in. xix) Heels shall be attached with 14 heel pins, from either the inside or the outside as specified by agreement between the supplier and the purchaser. The top-piece s
32、hall be attached by two rows of brass rivets or wood pegs as specified by the purchaser. The height of the finished heel shall be 11/4in. xx) The breasts of heels shall be cleanly scoured. Edges, heels and top-pieces shall be finished black. The soles shall be left natural. xxi) All closing seams on
33、 the finished boot shall be thoroughly filled with a mixture of equal parts of beeswax, paraffin wax and leather dressers solid grease. The mixture shall be well worked into the seams to ensure that all needle holes are completely filled. 7 Water-proofness The boots shall be water-proof when tested
34、in accordance with the method described in Appendix “D”. 8 Marking Boots purporting to comply with this British Standard shall be marked with the following particulars: a) Size and fitting. These shall be indelibly stamped with 3/8in. metal stamps on the waist of the outsole and the top of the leg.
35、b) Manufacturers name and year of manufacture. These shall be stamped at the top of the leg. c) The number of this British Standard. This shall be stamped at the top of the leg. The number BS 2723 on the product is an indication by the manufacturer that the goods purport to comply with this standard
36、. Licensed Copy: London South Bank University, London South Bank University, Tue Dec 12 08:59:12 GMT+00:00 2006, Uncontrolled Copy, (c) BSI BS 2723:1956 BSI 09-19993 Table 1 Standard requirements for leathers Part of bootMaterial Substance mmIrons min.max.min.max. Front Leg Counter loop and back str
37、ap Prime part of well dressed full chrome black, printed, waterproof hide, from selected English market or good quality wet-salted hides, in accordance with Appendix G. 2.5 2.3 1.9 3.0 2.5 2.1 Front lining Top band lining Prime part of greasy lining, prepared from East India kips, dressed as specifi
38、ed by the purchaser. 1.51.75 InnersolePrime part of natural chrome tanned shoulder, from selected market hides or good quality wet-salted hides of Commonwealth, European or South American origin, in accordance with Appendix C. 881/2 UndersolePrime part of full chrome tanned shoulder, from selected m
39、arket hides or good quality wet-salted hide of Commonwealth, European or South American origin, in accordance with Appendix C. 89 OutsolePrime part of full chrome tanned outsole bend, from selected market hides or good quality wet-salted hides of Commonwealth, European or South American origin, in a
40、ccordance with Appendix C. 1013 LiftsGood quality vegetable tanned shoulder, in accordance with Appendix B. 79 Top pieceSelected part of vegetable tanned sole bend, in accordance with Appendix B. 1112 Toe puffGood quality English or wet-salted struck belly, firm tight tannages of even substance, pro
41、perly skived and prepared. 41/25 StiffenerGood quality English or wet-salted struck shoulder, firm tight tannages of even substance, properly skived and prepared. 61/27 Licensed Copy: London South Bank University, London South Bank University, Tue Dec 12 08:59:12 GMT+00:00 2006, Uncontrolled Copy, (
42、c) BSI BS 2723:1956 4 BSI 09-1999 Table 2 Standard requirements for sundries Table 3 Standard requirements for threads and stitching Part of bootMaterial Filling Leg stay Pegs Pins, heel attaching Pins, heel building Rivets, undersole Toes and seats Sides and waists Rivets for attaching top pieces T
43、acks (lasting) Toes and seats Sides and waists Screwing wire for seats Good quality tarred felt Whalebone or other suitable material in accordance with the requirements of Appendix B 5/16in. wide, 9 in. length Wood, gauge 10 12; length 3/4in. Iron, square, 11/4in. 14 S.W.G. Iron, 5/8in. gauge 16 10
44、Brass spear-point 5/8in. gauge 16 10 Brass spear-point 1/2 in. gauge 16 10 Brass spear-point 5/8in. gauge 16 10 Iron 3/8in. Iron 5/16in. Brass, 13 S.W.G. I. Upper closing a) Hand closing Part of bootThreadStitches to 1 in. Front, counter, back seam and back strap Linen, No. 22 waxed 4 cord 67 b) Loc
45、kstitch machine closing. Part Thread Stitches to 1 in. TopShuttleNeedle Back seam Top band Front Counter Back strap Loops Whalebone stop row on back strap cord linen waxed 18/3 25/3 18/5 18/5 18/5 18/5 18/5 linen waxed 18/3 25/3 18/5 18/5 18/5 18/5 18/5 23 22 24 24 25 24 24 10 9 67 67 67 67 67 II. U
46、nder and outsole stitching ThreadNeedleAwlStitches to 1 in. Top Shuttle 12 Cord linen hot waxed 10 Cord linen waxed 413967 Licensed Copy: London South Bank University, London South Bank University, Tue Dec 12 08:59:12 GMT+00:00 2006, Uncontrolled Copy, (c) BSI BS 2723:1956 BSI 09-19995 Appendix A Me
47、thod for determining stiffness of leg stay material a) Strength test. The stiffener shall be strong enough to be bent in its most flexible direction round a 1 in. mandrel making contact with the mandrel through 180, without failure of the material and on release it shall return substantially to its
48、original condition. In the case of a non-homogeneous material such as whale-bone the test shall be carried out with the surface in contact with the mandrel corresponding to the surface of the stiffener towards the inside of the boot. b) Stiffness test. When loaded in the plane of greatest stiffness
49、with a load of 2 lb placed 1/4 in. from the end of a cantilever of free length 41/4in. (see diagram) the deflection at a point 1/8 in. from the free end shall not exceed 0.30 in. The cantilever shall be restrained from torsional rotation by means of comparatively frictionless guides. Appendix B Requirements for vegetable tanned leathers a) Sampling and chemical analysis. The sampling and chemical analysis of the leather shall be carried out as laid down, or as in BS 1309 “Sampling and analysis of veget