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1、BRITISH STANDARD BS 3320:1988 Incorporating Amendment Nos. 1 and 2 and Corrigendum No. 1 Method for Determination of slippage resistance of yarns in woven fabrics: seam method ICS 59.080.30 NO COPYING WITHOUT BSI PERMISSION EXCEPT AS PERMITTED BY COPYRIGHT LAW Licensed Copy: sheffieldun sheffieldun,
2、 na, Wed Nov 29 07:18:10 GMT+00:00 2006, Uncontrolled Copy, (c) BSI BS 3320:1988 This British Standard, having been prepared under the direction of the Textiles and Clothing Standards Committee, was published under the authority of the Board of BSI and comes into effect on 31 August 1988 BSI 03-2001
3、 First published December 1960 First revision February 1970 Second revision August 1988 The following BSI references relate to the work on this standard: Committee reference TCM/24 Draft for comment 87/35876 DC ISBN 0 580 16657 0 Committees responsible for this British Standard The preparation of th
4、is British Standard was entrusted by the Textiles and Clothing Standards Committee (TCM/-) to Technical Committee TCM/24, upon which the following bodies were represented: Association of Consulting Scientists British Polyolefin Textiles Association British Textile Employers Association Confederation
5、 of British Wool Textiles Limited International Wool Secretariat Man-made Fibres Producers Committee Ministry of Defence SATRA Footwear Technology Centre Soap and Detergent Industry Association Society of Motor Manufacturers and Traders Limited Textile Institute Textile Research Council Amendments i
6、ssued since publication Amd. No.Date of issueComments 6261May 1990 10933January 2001Indicated by a sideline 13106 Corr. No. 1 March 2001Corrections to the sidelines of Amendment No. 2 Licensed Copy: sheffieldun sheffieldun, na, Wed Nov 29 07:18:10 GMT+00:00 2006, Uncontrolled Copy, (c) BSI BS 3320:1
7、988 BSI 03-2001 i Contents Page Committees responsible Inside front cover Foreword ii 1Scope 1 2Principle 1 3Apparatus 1 4Conditioning and testing atmosphere 1 5Adjustment of sewing machine 1 6Preparation of test specimens 2 7Procedure 2 8Calculation and expression of results3 9Test report 3 Appendi
8、x A Accuracy 4 Figure 1 Stitch type 301 from BS 3870-1 2 Figure 2 Preparation of test specimens 2 Publications referred toInside back cover Licensed Copy: sheffieldun sheffieldun, na, Wed Nov 29 07:18:10 GMT+00:00 2006, Uncontrolled Copy, (c) BSI BS 3320:1988 ii BSI 03-2001 Foreword This British Sta
9、ndard has been prepared under the direction of the Textiles and Clothing Standards Committee and forms a revision of BS 3320:1970, which is withdrawn. Following publication of BS 3320:1970 comments were received that the method was unsatisfactory and not therefore in general use. However further stu
10、dies are being made of the accuracy of the method described in BS 3320:1970 which may lead to the method being published for limited applications. A working party was set up to develop a test which involved assessment of the force required to produce a specified seam opening rather than one that mea
11、sured the opening of a seam under a given force. The method developed by the working party was described in Textile Institute and Industry, October 1976, but was not developed as a British Standard at that time until more experience had been obtained. Information on accuracy of the test is given in
12、Appendix A. Yarn slippage at the seams of garments, etc., depends on several factors, such as the structure of the fabric, the type of seam, and the conditions of stitching. The purpose of this test is to assess the liability of yarn to slippage at a seam under standardized conditions of seaming and
13、 testing. It is realized that slippage can often be minimized by the use of special types of seam and that the type of seam used in the test is not necessarily the most appropriate for use in the making-up of garments. At the time of publication of this standard no corresponding international standa
14、rd exists. However, work is in progress on the development of a method by the International Organization for Standardization (ISO) which, on publication, may lead to amendment or revision of this standard. A method is also being prepared for determination of seam strength of made-up textile articles
15、 which may be published as a British Standard. A British Standard does not purport to include all the necessary provisions of a contract. Users of British Standards are responsible for their correct application. Compliance with a British Standard does not of itself confer immunity from legal obligat
16、ions. Summary of pages This document comprises a front cover, an inside front cover, pages i and ii, pages 1 to 4, an inside back cover and a back cover. The BSI copyright notice displayed in this document indicates when the document was last issued. Sidelining in this document indicates the most re
17、cent changes by amendment. Licensed Copy: sheffieldun sheffieldun, na, Wed Nov 29 07:18:10 GMT+00:00 2006, Uncontrolled Copy, (c) BSI BS 3320:1988 BSI 03-2001 1 1 Scope This British Standard describes a method for determination of yarn slippage in woven fabrics at stitched seams. The method is parti
18、cularly applicable to apparel fabrics, but it is not intended for industrial fabrics, e.g. beltings. Tests are normally made with a seam opening of 6 mm, but provision is made for a very small seam opening of 3 mm which would produce an unsatisfactory appearance on certain fabrics, e.g. fabrics with
19、 warp and weft of contrasting colours. NOTEThe titles of the publications referred to in this standard are listed on the inside back cover. 2 Principle A strip of fabric is folded and stitched across its width. The strip is cut at a distance from the seam line and then extended at right angles to th
20、e seam by using grab-test jaws, and the force required to cause a specified seam opening is determined. 3 Apparatus 3.1 Sewing machine, electrically operated, single needle, industrial lockstitch, capable of producing stitch type 301 described in BS 3870-1 (see Figure 1) at a speed of not more than
21、3 000 stitches per minute. 3.2 Needles, throat-plate and feed-dog (see clause 5). 3.3 Tensile-strength tester, complying with at least grade 2.0 of BS 1610-1 and capable of giving a rate of jaw separation of 100 10 mm/min. Grab-test clamps shall be used, each clamp having one jaw face measuring 25 m
22、m perpendicular to the application of force and not less than 25 mm or more than 50 mm in the direction parallel to the application of force. The other jaw face shall be 25 mm in the direction parallel to the application of force and not less than 25 mm in the direction perpendicular to the applicat
23、ion of force. NOTE 1These sizes of jaw face give a gripped area of 25 mm?25 mm. The jaws shall be capable of holding the specimen without allowing it to slip and designed so that they do not cut or otherwise weaken the specimen. The faces of the jaws shall be smooth and flat, except that when, even
24、with packing, the test specimen cannot be held satisfactorily with flat-faced jaws, engraved or corrugated jaws shall be used. NOTE 2 Suitable packing materials for use with either smooth or corrugated jaws include paper, felt, leather, plastics or rubber sheet. The tensile-strength tester shall be
25、provided with either an autographic force/extension chart recorder or an interface computer. 3.4 Means for conditioning, providing the atmosphere for conditioning and testing specified in clause 4. 3.5 Sewing thread1), white 100 % polyester core spun, commercially available ticket number 80 (approxi
26、mately 440 dtex to 480 dtex), having a continuous filament polyester core and a staple polyester fibre sheath. The sewing thread shall have a maximum extension at break of 20 % when measured in accordance with BS 1932-1. 4 Conditioning and testing atmosphere The standard temperate atmosphere for tes
27、ting textiles defined in BS 1051 shall be used for conditioning and testing, i.e. an atmosphere having a relative humidity of 65 2 % and a temperature of 20 20 ?C. 5 Adjustment of sewing machine Insert a needle of metric number 90 and the corresponding throat-plate and feed-dog and set the machine t
28、o give a stitch rating of 5.0 stitches per centimetre when sewing a piece of test fabric with the needle of the machine unthreaded. Measure the spacing of the holes thus produced. Adjust the thread tension as follows. With the lower-thread bobbin, in its case, removed from the machine, hold the thre
29、ad issuing from the bobbin case so as to allow the case to run down the thread as it unwinds. Adjust the tension spring on the bobbin case so that the case runs down the thread at a slow uniform speed. Replace the bobbin in the machine and adjust the tension of the thread feed to the needle so that,
30、 when a double thickness of the fabric under test is stitched, the cross-over between the needle thread and the spool or shuttle thread is located midway between the upper and lower surfaces of the seam (see Figure 1). 1)For details of the source of supply of a suitable sewing thread, apply to Enqui
31、ry Section, BSI, Linford Wood, Milton Keynes MK 14 6LE enclosing a stamped addressed envelop for reply. Licensed Copy: sheffieldun sheffieldun, na, Wed Nov 29 07:18:10 GMT+00:00 2006, Uncontrolled Copy, (c) BSI BS 3320:1988 2 BSI 03-2001 6 Preparation of test specimens 6.1 Cutting 6.1.1 For slippage
32、 resistance at warpway seams prepare five specimens each 100 mm wide in the warp direction and 350 mm long in the weft direction. For slippage resistance at weftway seams prepare five specimens each 100 mm wide in the weft direction and 350 mm long in the warp direction. 6.1.2 Cut all specimens rand
33、omly from the sample avoiding fabric within 50 mm of the selvedges. Make a fold in each specimen 100 mm from one end and parallel to the 100 mm side. Make a lockstitch seam using sewing thread complying with ticket number 80 of BS 4134, in a metric size 90 needle at a rate of 5.0 stitches per centim
34、etre at a distance of 20 mm from the fold line. 6.1.3 Cut each seamed specimen, by cutting through both layers of the fabric, 12 mm from the seam line (see Figure 2). 6.1.4 Cut each specimen in half, parallel to the seam. In this way two test specimens of equal length are produced, one with a lockst
35、itch seam, the other without a lockstitch seam. 6.2 Conditioning Condition the specimen in the atmosphere specified in clause 4. 7 Procedure 7.1 Select the appropriate force range so that the expected seam slippage force lies between 25 % and 80 % of the scale force chosen (this may require the test
36、ing of a preliminary test specimen in order to determine the correct range). Set the chart/crosshead ratio at 5 : 1, unless using an interface computer. 7.2 Set the clamps of the tensile-strength tester a distance of 75 mm apart. Set the tensile-strength tester to give a rate of jaw separation of 10
37、0 10 mm/min. Clamp the unseamed test specimen in the jaws so that the test specimen is mounted centrally and produce a force/extension curve on the chart until a force of 200 N is exceeded. Clamp the seamed test specimen in the jaws in the same way as above, ensuring the seam is midway between and p
38、arallel to the jaws and produce another force/extension curve from the same zero point on the chart. NOTEThis stitch type is formed with two threads: one needle thread (1), and one bobbin thread (a). A loop of thread 1 is passed through the material from the needle side and is interlaced with thread
39、 a on the other side. Thread 1 is pulled back so that the interlacing comes midway between the surfaces of the material being sewn. A minimum of two stitches describes this stitch type. Figure 1 Stitch type 301 from BS 3870-1 Figure 2 Preparation of test specimens Licensed Copy: sheffieldun sheffiel
40、dun, na, Wed Nov 29 07:18:10 GMT+00:00 2006, Uncontrolled Copy, (c) BSI BS 3320:1988 BSI 03-2001 3 Repeat this procedure with the remaining test specimens so that separate pairs of curves are produced. These will be used to calculate the amount of fabric slippage in the sample. 8 Calculation and exp
41、ression of results For each pair of curves, measure the distance (l) to the nearest 0.5 mm between the curve without a seam and the curve with a seam at a force of 5 N. This is to compensate for initial straightening of the seamed test specimen. Add the distance (l) to 30 mm (equivalent to a seam op
42、ening of 6 mm) but for fabrics where a seam opening of 3 mm would produce an unsatisfactory appearance, add the distance (l) to 15 mm. Find the point on each pair of curves where the separation between them, parallel to the extension axis, is the figure calculated above (i.e. seam opening plus compe
43、nsation). Read off the force in newtons to the nearest newton at this separation. Report the average of the results to the nearest newton. If the required separation between the curves is not achieved at or before a force of 200 N report the result as “more than 200 N”. If the fabric tears at a forc
44、e of 200 N or less and the horizontal separation cannot be found, report the result as “fabric breakdown” and quote the force at which this occurred. 9 Test report The test report shall include the following particulars: a) the number and date of this British Standard, i.e. BS 3320:1988; b) the type
45、 of sewing thread used; c) the average seam opening force (in newtons) and the seam opening of 6 mm or 3 mm; d) if applicable, a statement “more than 200 N” or “fabric breakdown” and the force at which this occurred. Licensed Copy: sheffieldun sheffieldun, na, Wed Nov 29 07:18:10 GMT+00:00 2006, Unc
46、ontrolled Copy, (c) BSI BS 3320:1988 4 BSI 03-2001 Appendix A Accuracy An interlaboratory trial has been carried out which showed that the coefficient of variation of the results was within 10 %. Licensed Copy: sheffieldun sheffieldun, na, Wed Nov 29 07:18:10 GMT+00:00 2006, Uncontrolled Copy, (c) B
47、SI BS 3320:1988 BSI 03-2001 Publications referred to BS 1051, Glossary of terms relating to the conditioning, testing and mass determination of textiles. BS 1932, Methods for determination of the strength of yarns and threads from packages. BS 1932-1, Determination of breaking strength and extension
48、. BS 1610, Materials testing machines and force verification equipment. BS 1610-1, Specification for the grading of the forces applied by materials testing machines. BS 3870, Stitches and seams. BS 3870-1, Classification and terminology of stitch types. BS 4134, Specification for ticket numbering of
49、 industrial sewing threads. Textile Institute and Industry, October 19762). 2)Referred to in the foreword only and published by and obtainable from the Textile Institute, 10 Blackfriars Streets, Manchester M3 5DR. Licensed Copy: sheffieldun sheffieldun, na, Wed Nov 29 07:18:10 GMT+00:00 2006, Uncontrolled Copy, (c) BSI BS 3320:1988 BSI 389 Chiswick High Road London W4 4AL BSI British Standards Institution BSI is the independent national body responsible for preparing British Standards. It presents the UK view on standards in Europe and at the international le