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1、| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | BRITISH STANDARD BS EN 12276:1999 The Euro
2、pean Standard EN 12276:1998 has the status of a British Standard ICS 97.220.40 NO COPYING WITHOUT BSI PERMISSION EXCEPT AS PERMITTED BY COPYRIGHT LAW Mountaineering equipment Frictional anchors Safety requirements and test methods Licensed Copy: sheffieldun sheffieldun, na, Sat Oct 28 16:50:52 GMT+0
3、0:00 2006, Uncontrolled Copy, (c) BSI BS EN 12276:1999 This British Standard, having been prepared under the direction of the Consumer Products and Services Sector Committee, was published under the authority of the Standards Committee and comes into effect on 15 February 1999 BSI 02-1999 ISBN 0 580
4、 30394 2 Amendments issued since publication Amd. No.DateText affected National foreword This British Standard is the English language version of EN 12276:1998. The UK participation in its preparation was entrusted by Technical Committee SW/136, Sports, playground and other recreational equipment, t
5、o Subcommittee SW/136/5, Mountaineering equipment, which has the responsibility to: aid enquirers to understand the text; present to the responsible European committee any enquiries on the interpretation, or proposals for change, and keep the UK interests informed; monitor related international and
6、European developments and promulgate them in the UK. A list of organizations represented on this subcommittee can be obtained on request to its secretary. Cross-references The British Standards which implement international or European publications referred to in this document may be found in the BS
7、I Standards Catalogue under the section entitled International Standards Correspondence Index, or by using the Find facility of the BSI Standards Electronic Catalogue. A British Standard does not purport to include all the necessary provisions of a contract. Users of British Standards are responsibl
8、e for their correct application. Compliance with a British Standard does not of itself confer immunity from legal obligations. Summary of pages This document comprises a front cover, an inside front cover, the EN title page, pages 2 to 7 and a back cover. Licensed Copy: sheffieldun sheffieldun, na,
9、Sat Oct 28 16:50:52 GMT+00:00 2006, Uncontrolled Copy, (c) BSI CEN European Committee for Standardization Comite Europe en de Normalisation Europa isches Komitee fu r Normung Central Secretariat: rue de Stassart 36, B-1050 Brussels 1998 CEN All rights of exploitation in any form and by any means res
10、erved worldwide for CEN national Members. Ref. No. EN 12276:1998 E EUROPEAN STANDARDEN 12276 NORME EUROPE ENNE EUROPA ISCHE NORM September 1998 ICS 97.220.40 Descriptors: sport equipment, mountaineering, mountaineering chocks, definitions, safety, specifications, equipment specifications, mechanical
11、 strength, tests, information, marking English version Mountaineering equipment Frictional anchors Safety requirements and test methods Equipement dalpinisme et descalade Coinceurs me caniques Exigences de se curite et me thodes dessai Bergsteigerausru stung Klemmgera te Sicherheitstechnische Anford
12、erungen und Pru fverfahren This European Standard was approved by CEN on 7 August 1998. CEN members are bound to comply with the CEN/CENELEC Internal Regulations which stipulate the conditions for giving this European Standard the status of a national standard without any alteration. Up-to-date list
13、s and bibliographical references concerning such national standards may be obtained on application to the Central Secretariat or to any CEN member. This European Standard exists in three official versions (English, French, German). A version in any other language made by translation under the respon
14、sibility of a CEN member into its own language and notified to the Central Secretariat has the same status as the official versions. CEN members are the national standards bodies of Austria, Belgium, Czech Republic, Denmark, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Luxembourg, Neth
15、erlands, Norway, Portugal, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland and United Kingdom. Licensed Copy: sheffieldun sheffieldun, na, Sat Oct 28 16:50:52 GMT+00:00 2006, Uncontrolled Copy, (c) BSI Page 2 EN 12276:1998 BSI 02-1999 Foreword This European Standard has been prepared by Technical Committee CEN/TC 136, S
16、ports, playground and other recreational equipment, the Secretariat of which is held by DIN. This European Standard shall be given the status of a national standard, either by publication of an identical text or by endorsement, at the latest by March 1999, and conflicting national standards shall be
17、 withdrawn at the latest by March 1999. The text is based on UIAA-Standard L (Union Internationale des Associations dAlpinisme), which has been prepared with international participation. This standard is one of a package of standards for mountaineering equipment, see annex A. This European Standard
18、has been prepared under a mandate given to CEN by the European Commission and the European Free Trade Association, and supports essential requirements of EU Directive(s). For relationship with EU Directive(s), see informative Annex ZA, which is an integral part of this standard. Annexes A and ZA of
19、this European Standard are for information only. According to the CEN/CENELEC Internal Regulations, the national standards organizations of the following countries are bound to implement this European Standard: Austria, Belgium, Czech Republic, Denmark, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Iceland, Ire
20、land, Italy, Luxembourg, Netherlands, Norway, Portugal, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland and the United Kingdom. Contents Page Foreword2 1Scope3 2Normative references3 3Definitions3 3.1frictional anchor3 3.2means of attachment3 3.3holding force3 4Safety requirements3 4.1Design3 4.2Strength3 5Test methods3
21、 5.1Test samples3 5.2Apparatus for strength test3 5.3Conditioning and test conditions5 5.4Procedures5 6Information to be supplied5 7Marking5 Annex A (informative) Standards on mountaineering equipment6 Annex ZA (informative) Clauses of this European Standard addressing essential requirements or othe
22、r provisions of EU Directives7 Licensed Copy: sheffieldun sheffieldun, na, Sat Oct 28 16:50:52 GMT+00:00 2006, Uncontrolled Copy, (c) BSI Page 3 EN 12276:1998 BSI 02-1999 1 Scope This standard specifies safety requirements and test methods for frictional anchors for use in mountaineering including c
23、limbing. 2 Normative references This European Standard incorporates, by dated or undated reference, provisions from other publications. These normative references are cited at the appropriate places in the text and the publications are listed hereafter. For dated references, subsequent amendments to
24、 or revisions of any of these publications apply to this European Standard only when incorporated in it by amendment or revision. For undated references, the latest edition of the publication referred to applies. prEN 12275, Mountaineering equipment Connectors Safety requirements and test methods. E
25、N 20139, Textiles Standard atmospheres for conditioning and testing (ISO 139:1973). 3 Definitions For the purposes of this standard, the following definitions apply. 3.1 frictional anchor adjustable wedge-shaped body, which is intended to be wedged in cracks in the rock and is able to withstand a lo
26、ad in the direction of the longitudinal axis of the means of attachment. 3.2 means of attachment any system which allows the attachment of a connector (in accordance with prEN 12275). 3.3 holding force force necessary to cause the frictional anchor to break or slip through the test apparatus, as det
27、ermined in the strength test in accordance with 5.4.2. 4 Safety requirements 4.1 Design 4.1.1 Frictional anchors shall be fitted with a means of attachment to a connector. If the means of attachment is sewn, the stitching shall contrast with the background in colour or surface appearance. 4.1.2 The
28、means of attachment shall be large enough to accomodate a pin with a diameter of 15 mm. 4.1.3 All edges of the frictional anchor and/or the means of attachment that may come into contact with fingers or combinable components shall be free from burrs. 4.2 Strength When tested in accordance with 5.4.2
29、, the holding force shall be at least 5,0 kN. 5 Test methods 5.1 Test samples At least two frictional anchors shall be provided for the test. If a frictional anchor is manufactured in different sizes, each size shall be tested. 5.2 Apparatus for strength test 5.2.1 Layout The apparatus consists of t
30、wo parallel, rigid steel supporting jaws for the adjustable parts of the frictional anchor and of a loading bar with a diameter of (100,1) mm for the means of attachment, see Figure 2. The static friction between the supporting jaws and the frictional anchor shall be great enough to prevent the fric
31、tional anchor from slipping through at the test load, but the maximal surface roughness of Rmaxshall not exceed 500 mm. The surface of the loading bar shall have an arithmetical mean deviation of the profile of Ra= 0,8 mm and a maximal surface roughness of Rmax= 6,3 mm. There are no surface roughnes
32、s requirements for the loading bar when the means of attachment is other than textile material. 5.2.2 Adjustment The distance s between the supporting jaws shall be according to the following formula: Position 1: s = bmin+ (bmax2 bmin)/4 Position 2: s = bmin+ (bmax2 bmin)3/4 where bminis the minimum
33、 adjustable width bmaxis the maximum adjustable width, see Figure 1. If the range between bmaxand bminis less than 5 mm only one position according to the following formula shall be adjusted: s = bmin+ (bmax2 bmin)/2 Licensed Copy: sheffieldun sheffieldun, na, Sat Oct 28 16:50:52 GMT+00:00 2006, Unc
34、ontrolled Copy, (c) BSI Page 4 EN 12276:1998 BSI 02-1999 Figure 1 Examples of frictional anchors Licensed Copy: sheffieldun sheffieldun, na, Sat Oct 28 16:50:52 GMT+00:00 2006, Uncontrolled Copy, (c) BSI Page 5 EN 12276:1998 BSI 02-1999 Dimension in millimetres 1) loading bar 2) supporting jaws 3) f
35、rictional anchor 4) means of attachment Figure 2 Layout and adjustment of apparatus 5.3 Conditioning and test conditions For the strength test according to 5.4.2 condition frictional anchors with textile means of attachment in accordance with EN 20139; Carry out the strength test at a temperature of
36、 (235) 8C. For frictional anchors with textile means of attachment, start the strength test within 3 min of removing them from the conditioning atmosphere. 5.4 Procedure 5.4.1 Design 5.4.1.1 Check by visual examination that the requirements according to 4.1.1 are met. 5.4.1.2 Test the unloaded eye o
37、f the means of attachment in accordance with 4.1.2, with a pin of (150,1) mm diameter. 5.4.1.3 Check by visual examination and handling that the requirements according to 4.1.3 are met. 5.4.2 Strength 5.4.2.1 Rate of loading: of 20 mm to 50 mm per minute if the frictional anchor does not contain tex
38、tile elements of 50 mm to 200 mm per minute if the frictional anchor contains a textile element, subjected to stress during the test. 5.4.2.2 Load at least one test sample in each of positions 1 and 2. 5.4.2.3 Apply a load to each frictional anchor until it breaks or until it is pulled out of the ap
39、paratus. 6 Information to be supplied a) the name or trademark of the manufacturer, importer or supplier; b) the number of this European Standard: EN 12276; c) the model (if more than one model is available); d) the size (if more than one size is available); e) the minimum holding force in kN, which
40、 the manufacturer ensures. The value shall be expressed as a whole number of kN. f) the meaning of any markings on the product; g) on the use of the product and the level of protection which it can provide; h) on how to choose other components for use in the system; i) on how to maintain and service
41、 the product; j) on the lifespan of the product or how to assess; k) on the effects of chemical reagents and temperature on the product; l) on the influence of wet and icy conditions; m) on the danger of sharp edges; n) on the influence of storage and ageing. 7 Marking Frictional anchors shall be ma
42、rked clearly, indelibly and durably with at least the following information: a) name or trademark of the manufacturer, importer or supplier; b) the minimum holding force in kN. The marked force shall be a whole number of kN with the unit kN. Licensed Copy: sheffieldun sheffieldun, na, Sat Oct 28 16:
43、50:52 GMT+00:00 2006, Uncontrolled Copy, (c) BSI Page 6 EN 12276:1998 BSI 02-1999 Annex A (informative) Standards on mountaineering equipment Table A.1 List of standards on mountaineering equipment No.DocumentTitle 1EN 892Mountaineering equipment Dynamic mountaineering ropes Safety requirements and
44、test methods 2prEN 12275Mountaineering equipment Connectors Safety requirements and test methods 3prEN 13089Mountaineering equipment Ice-tools Safety requirements and test methods 4prEN 12277Mountaineering equipment Harnesses Safety requirements and test methods 5prEN 12492Mountaineering equipment H
45、elmets Safety requirements and test methods 6EN 564Mountaineering equipment Accessory cord Safety requirements and test methods 7EN 565Mountaineering equipment Tape Safety requirements and test methods 8EN 566Mountaineering equipment Slings Safety requirements and test methods 9prEN 12276Mountaineer
46、ing equipment Frictional anchors Safety requirements and test methods 10prEN 12270Mountaineering equipment Chocks Safety requirements and test methods 11EN 567Mountaineering equipment Rope clamps Safety requirements and test methods 12EN 958Mountaineering equipment Energy absorbing systems for use i
47、n klettersteig (via ferrata) climbing Safety requirements and test methods 13EN 959Mountaineering equipment Rock anchors Safety requirements and test methods 14EN 568Mountaineering equipment Ice anchors Safety requirements and test methods 15EN 569Mountaineering equipment Pitons Safety requirements
48、and test methods 16prEN 893Mountaineering equipment Crampons Safety requirements and test methods 17 1) Mountaineering equipment Descenders Safety requirements and test methods (00136079) 18prEN 12278Mountaineering equipment Pulleys Safety requirements and test methods 1) in preparation Licensed Cop
49、y: sheffieldun sheffieldun, na, Sat Oct 28 16:50:52 GMT+00:00 2006, Uncontrolled Copy, (c) BSI BSI 02-1999 Page 7 EN 12276:1998 Annex ZA (informative) Clauses of this European Standard addressing essential requirements or other provisions of EU Directives This European Standard has been prepared under a mandate given to CEN by the European Commission and the European Free Trade Association and supports essential requirements of EU Directi