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1、BRITISH STANDARD BS EN ISO 17693:2005 Footwear Test methods for uppers Resistance to damage on lasting The European Standard EN ISO 17693:2005 has the status of a British Standard ICS 61.060 ? Licensed Copy: sheffieldun sheffieldun, na, Sun Nov 19 13:45:45 GMT+00:00 2006, Uncontrolled Copy, (c) BSI
2、BS EN ISO 17693:2005 This British Standard was published under the authority of the Standards Policy and Strategy Committee on 9 March 2006 BSI 9 March 2006 ISBN 0 580 47854 8 National foreword This British Standard is the official English language version of EN ISO 17693:2005. It is identical with
3、ISO 17693:2004. It supersedes BS EN 13511:2002 which is withdrawn. The UK participation in its preparation was entrusted to Technical Committee TCI/69, Footwear, leather and coated fabrics, which has the responsibility to: A list of organizations represented on this committee can be obtained on requ
4、est to its secretary. Cross-references The British Standards which implement international or European publications referred to in this document may be found in the BSI Catalogue under the section entitled “International Standards Correspondence Index”, or by using the “Search” facility of the BSI E
5、lectronic Catalogue or of British Standards Online. This publication does not purport to include all the necessary provisions of a contract. Users are responsible for its correct application. Compliance with a British Standard does not of itself confer immunity from legal obligations. aid enquirers
6、to understand the text; present to the responsible international/European committee any enquiries on the interpretation, or proposals for change, and keep UK interests informed; monitor related international and European developments and promulgate them in the UK. Summary of pages This document comp
7、rises a front cover, an inside front cover, the EN ISO title page, the EN ISO foreword page, the ISO title page, pages ii and iii, a blank page, pages 1 to 5 and a back cover. The BSI copyright notice displayed in this document indicates when the document was last issued. Amendments issued since pub
8、lication Amd. No. DateComments Licensed Copy: sheffieldun sheffieldun, na, Sun Nov 19 13:45:45 GMT+00:00 2006, Uncontrolled Copy, (c) BSI EUROPEAN STANDARD NORME EUROPENNE EUROPISCHE NORM EN ISO 17693 September 2005 ICS 61.060Supersedes EN 13511:2001 English Version Footwear - Test methods for upper
9、s - Resistance to damage on lasting (ISO 17693:2004) Chaussures - Mthodes dessai des tiges - Aptitude au montage (ISO 17693:2004) Schuhe - Prfverfahren fr Obermaterialien - Aufzwickbarkeit (ISO 17693:2004) This European Standard was approved by CEN on 26 August 2005. CEN members are bound to comply
10、with the CEN/CENELEC Internal Regulations which stipulate the conditions for giving this European Standard the status of a national standard without any alteration. Up-to-date lists and bibliographical references concerning such national standards may be obtained on application to the Central Secret
11、ariat or to any CEN member. This European Standard exists in three official versions (English, French, German). A version in any other language made by translation under the responsibility of a CEN member into its own language and notified to the Central Secretariat has the same status as the offici
12、al versions. CEN members are the national standards bodies of Austria, Belgium, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden
13、, Switzerland and United Kingdom. EUROPEAN COMMITTEE FOR STANDARDIZATION COMIT EUROPEN DE NORMALISATION EUROPISCHES KOMITEE FR NORMUNG Management Centre: rue de Stassart, 36 B-1050 Brussels 2005 CENAll rights of exploitation in any form and by any means reserved worldwide for CEN national Members. R
14、ef. No. EN ISO 17693:2005: E Licensed Copy: sheffieldun sheffieldun, na, Sun Nov 19 13:45:45 GMT+00:00 2006, Uncontrolled Copy, (c) BSI Foreword The text of ISO 17693:2004 has been prepared by Technical Committee ISO/TC 216 “Footwear“ of the International Organization for Standardization (ISO) and h
15、as been taken over as EN ISO 17693:2005 by Technical Committee CEN/TC 309 “Footwear“, the secretariat of which is held by AFNOR. This European Standard shall be given the status of a national standard, either by publication of an identical text or by endorsement, at the latest by March 2006, and con
16、flicting national standards shall be withdrawn at the latest by March 2006. This document supersedes EN 13511:2001. According to the CEN/CENELEC Internal Regulations, the national standards organizations of the following countries are bound to implement this European Standard: Austria, Belgium, Cypr
17、us, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland and United Kingdom. Endorsement notice The text of ISO 17693:2004 has
18、been approved by CEN as EN ISO 17693:2005 without any modifications. EN ISO 17693:2005 Licensed Copy: sheffieldun sheffieldun, na, Sun Nov 19 13:45:45 GMT+00:00 2006, Uncontrolled Copy, (c) BSI Reference number ISO 17693:2004(E) INTERNATIONAL STANDARD ISO 17693 First edition 2004-10-15 Footwear Test
19、 methods for uppers Resistance to damage on lasting Chaussures Mthodes dessai des tiges Aptitude au montage EN ISO 17693:2005 Licensed Copy: sheffieldun sheffieldun, na, Sun Nov 19 13:45:45 GMT+00:00 2006, Uncontrolled Copy, (c) BSI ii Licensed Copy: sheffieldun sheffieldun, na, Sun Nov 19 13:45:45
20、GMT+00:00 2006, Uncontrolled Copy, (c) BSI iii Foreword ISO (the International Organization for Standardization) is a worldwide federation of national standards bodies (ISO member bodies). The work of preparing International Standards is normally carried out through ISO technical committees. Each me
21、mber body interested in a subject for which a technical committee has been established has the right to be represented on that committee. International organizations, governmental and non-governmental, in liaison with ISO, also take part in the work. ISO collaborates closely with the International E
22、lectrotechnical Commission (IEC) on all matters of electrotechnical standardization. International Standards are drafted in accordance with the rules given in the ISO/IEC Directives, Part 2. The main task of technical committees is to prepare International Standards. Draft International Standards ad
23、opted by the technical committees are circulated to the member bodies for voting. Publication as an International Standard requires approval by at least 75 % of the member bodies casting a vote. Attention is drawn to the possibility that some of the elements of this document may be the subject of pa
24、tent rights. ISO shall not be held responsible for identifying any or all such patent rights. ISO 17693 was prepared by the European Committee for Standardization as EN 13511:2001. This International Standard includes corrigendum EN 13511:2001/AC:2003 and was adopted under a special “fast-track proc
25、edure” by Technical Committee ISO/TC 216, Footwear in parallel with its approval by the ISO member bodies. Throughout the text of this document, read “.this European Standard.” to mean “.this International Standard.”. EN ISO 17693:2005 Licensed Copy: sheffieldun sheffieldun, na, Sun Nov 19 13:45:45
26、GMT+00:00 2006, Uncontrolled Copy, (c) BSI blank Licensed Copy: sheffieldun sheffieldun, na, Sun Nov 19 13:45:45 GMT+00:00 2006, Uncontrolled Copy, (c) BSI 1 1 Scope This European Standard specifies a test method to determine the lastability of uppers or complete upper assembly irrespective of the m
27、aterial in order to assess the suitability for the end use. 2 Normative references This European Standard incorporates by dated or undated reference, provisions from other publications. These normative references are cited at the appropriate places in the text, and the publications are listed hereaf
28、ter. For dated references, subsequent amendments to or revisions of any of these publications apply to this European Standard only when incorporated in it by amendment or revision. For undated references the latest edition of the publication referred to applies (including amendments). EN 12222, Foot
29、wear - Standard atmospheres for conditioning and testing of footwear and components for footwear. prEN ISO 2418, Leather - Chemical, physical, mechanical and fastness tests Sampling. 3 Terms and definitions For the purposes of this European Standard, the following terms and definitions apply. 3.1 re
30、sistance to damage on lasting ability of a material to be stretched simultaneously in all directions (distended) without being damaged 3.2 upper materials forming the outer face of the footwear which is attached to the sole assembly and covers the upper dorsal surface of the foot. In the case of boo
31、ts this also includes the outer face of the material covering the leg. Only the materials that are visible are included, no account should be taken of underlying materials 3.3 complete upper assembly finished upper, fully seamed, joined or laminated together as appropriate, comprising the centre mat
32、erial and any lining(s) together with all components such as interlinings, adhesives, membranes, foams or reinforcements, but excluding toe puffs and stiffeners NOTEThe complete upper assembly can be flat, 2- dimensional or comprise lasted upper in the final footwear. 4 Apparatus and material The fo
33、llowing apparatus and material shall be used: 4.1Test machine (see Figures 1 and 2), including the following: 4.1.1Means of clamping the test specimen round its edge leaving a central circular free area of diameter 25,00 mm ? 0,5 mm. The design of the clamping system of the machine shall ensure that
34、 the test specimen does not slip during the test, and shall neither stretch nor compress the central area of the test specimen as it is clamped. EN ISO 17693:2005 Licensed Copy: sheffieldun sheffieldun, na, Sun Nov 19 13:45:45 GMT+00:00 2006, Uncontrolled Copy, (c) BSI 2 Dimensions in millimetres Ke
35、y 1 Cap 2 Clamp ring 3 Head Figure 1 Details of clamp and head All dimensions 0,025 mm 4 Rod and ball 5 Bore EN ISO 17693:2005 Licensed Copy: sheffieldun sheffieldun, na, Sun Nov 19 13:45:45 GMT+00:00 2006, Uncontrolled Copy, (c) BSI 3 Figure 2 Cross Section of clamping head with test piece in posit
36、ion 4.1.2Moveable plunger with a 6,25 mm 0,05 mm diameter spherical ball on the end. 4.1.3Means of moving the plunger relative to the test specimen clamp at a speed of 0,20 mm/s 0,05 mm/s. 4.1.4Means of monitoring the distension (travel of the plunger from zero) to an accuracy of 0,05 mm. 4.1.5Means
37、 of monitoring the force on the plunger within the range 0 N to 800 N to an accuracy of 10 N. 4.2Press knife or similar means for cutting test specimens. 5 Sampling and conditioning 5.1Test specimens shall be of a sufficient size to allow them to be clamped firmly on the test machine (see 4.1), so t
38、hat they do not slip during the test. In the case of leather use prEN ISO 2418 to select the sampling position from the butt region of the skin or side. For non-leather materials cut 3 test specimens from a range of positions across the full usable width and length of the sheet material. For a mater
39、ial with a woven structure this shall prevent any two test specimens containing the same warp or weft threads. 5.2For test specimens from footwear uppers, they shall not be cut from any areas containing seams or perforations and any other design features which mean that the test specimen will not be
40、 of uniform thickness across its entire surface area. Furthermore, no test specimens shall be cut from areas of finished shoe uppers which are subjected to strains during lasting, especially the toe and backpart areas. Test specimens shall be prepared from complete upper assemblies when the lining m
41、aterial is permanently attached to the upper material. EN ISO 17693:2005 Licensed Copy: sheffieldun sheffieldun, na, Sun Nov 19 13:45:45 GMT+00:00 2006, Uncontrolled Copy, (c) BSI 4 It can be that it is impossible to cut a test specimen of sufficient size from certain types of footwear especially ch
42、ildrens and the test specimen size shall not be reduced. If it is not possible to cut the correct size test specimen from a shoe upper the materials themselves shall be tested. 5.3Place the test specimens in a conditioned environment as specified in EN 12222 for 24 h prior to test and carry out the
43、test in this atmosphere. 6 Test method 6.1 Principle A circular test specimen is clamped round its edge and is gradually distended by forcing a small metal ball attached to a plunger through the test specimen. At a certain distension, measured in terms of distance travelled by the plunger, either cr
44、acks appear in the surface of the material or a layer of the material sustains permanent physical damage; this distension is recorded as the first damage point. At a higher distension the material usually bursts and this distension can also be recorded. Throughout the test the travel of, and force o
45、n the plunger is monitored so that if required a plot of force against distension can be produced. 6.2 Procedure 6.2.1Ensure the test machine is set with the central plunger retracted to zero or minimum distension. If it has a maximum force pointer turn it to zero. 6.2.2Tightly clamp the test specim
46、en into the test machine so that the ball ended plunger acts on the reverse side of the test specimen (i.e. when testing grain leathers, the ball ended plunger will press against the flesh side of the leather) and the test specimen is flat. 6.2.3For some thick test specimens a very high clamping for
47、ce may be necessary whereas with thin test specimens care is required to avoid cutting into the test specimen. 6.2.4Force the plunger into the test specimen at a rate of 0,20 mm/s 0,05 mm/s. 6.2.5Record the point of first damage as the plunger stretches the test specimen as follows: a) When testing
48、leathers the first damage usually occurs in the finish or the surface of the grain. Hence during the test continually observe the surface of the test specimen, at the centre where the maximum distension is taking place. At the first sign of surface cracking, record the force on the plunger and the d
49、istension of the test specimen. However, if the grain is still intact, continue until grain crack occurs and record also the distension and force at this point. Patent leather is a special case because often the grain of the leather cracks before the patent surface film. Particular care is therefore required when observing patent leather test specimens. Two indications of the grain cracking are a small shallow depression in the surface of the film above the crack and a momen